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Audemars Piguet
Ref. 5503
An extraordinary, historical and well preserved stainless steel and 14k pink gold triple calendar wristwatch with moonphase, one of 5 made
Full-Cataloguing
- Triple calendar chronograph with moonphase display
- Stainless steel and 14k pink gold case
- One of only 5 ever made
- Prominently featured in "Audemars Piguet 20th Century Complicated Wristwatches" pp 218-219
- Very well preserved
In the realm of vintage watches there are rare watches and there are “Audemars Piguet complicated vintage” rare, a category that can redefine the word “scarce”!
One perfect example is the brand’s absolutely superb triple calendar/moon phase chronographs housing caliber 13VZAQ made between 1941 and 1943 in only 20 examples in different case types, sizes, dials and metals.
According to Audemars Piguet “Audemars Piguet 20th Century Complicated Wristwatches”, the present model was born as photograph reference 1534 and redesignated as reference 5503 in 1951. These models featured a Valjoux base chronograph with full calendar modules by Alfred Aubert.
Reference 5503 was produced between 1941 and 1943 and sold between 1945 and 1959. The model features a large 36 mm case (that visually looks larger due to the very thin bezel) and stylish teardrop lugs. Made in only 5 examples, all models featured a steel case and a 14k pink gold bezel, pushers and crown (the use of gold only for bezel and pushers was most probably due to gold restrictions during World War II), however one of the 5 was re-cased in yellow gold in 1959 prior to being sold meaning only 4 remained with a two-tone case.
According to the Archives of Audemars Piguet, the present watch with movement and case no. 46'538 was produced in 1942 and sold in 1945 to Roehrich, Audemars Piguet's distributor in the USA at the time. Interestingly this exact same wristwatch is illustrated in Audemars Piguet 20th Century Complicated Wristwatches pp. 218–219.
The present timepiece made its auction debut in 2015 where it entered one of the world’s most prominent collections and is now returning to the auction market for a second time 70 years after having been produced!
One can only be awestruck by the sheer beauty of the watch and the incredible design prowess. The elegant teardrop lugs and wide dial opening give the watch a commanding presence on the wrist, while the two-tone case and large chronograph/calendar subdials create a strikingly theatrical and charismatic visual impact.
The watch is furthermore preserved in extraordinary condition with an incredible silver dial (by Stern Frères) with a blue tachymeter scale and a crisp deep case number punched on the caseback that is particularly sensitive to regular wear.
Audemars Piguet
Swiss | 1881A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.
Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.