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Property of a Japanese Collector

84

Audemars Piguet

Ref. 5402

Royal Oak “Jumbo No Series”

A rare and well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with date, “No Series” case, bracelet and presentation box

Estimate
HK$390,000 - 650,000
€45,900 - 76,500
$50,000 - 83,300
HK$444,500
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 1975
Reference No
5402
Movement No
147’799
Case No
99’307
Model Name
Royal Oak “Jumbo No Series”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet fitted presentation box.
Catalogue Essay
Debuted in 1972, the Royal Oak sized at 39mm was considered at the time to be rather large in size, now recognized by its moniker “Jumbo” by collectors, its nickname traces back to 1973 first by a distributor. A whopping 25cm wrist circumference can certainly earn the title of “Jumbo”. Promoted by Japanese importer Desco in a printed advertisement, the Royal Oak was destined to be worn on the wrist of a famous Sumo wrestler, interestingly the caption also mentioned a normal bracelet size of the watch would be 18cm. A total of 10 links were needed in order to fit his wrist, making it the “JUMBO SIZE” Royal Oak.

It was commonly believed that all cases of reference 5402 bore a serial number found on the caseback (the famous A, B, C and D series). Examples without serial number were known but not accepted by the market which deemed such cases possibly as service replacements.

It is only until recently that in depth research - backed by the robust Audemars Piguet archive - has subverted such belief and in fact demonstrated that “no number” cases are fully legitimate and part of the original production of reference 5402, and - as expected - extremely rare.

According to the archives, such watches were mostly produced in 1975, for a total of 129 pieces. This was a transitional series of watches made after the end of the A series: the original decision was to stop using lettered case numbers, but eventually the company rescinded this choice and went on to the B series.

The present example is preserved beautifully with signs of tropicalization on its dial. The luminous material has also aged uniformly adding collectability to this rare series.

Audemars Piguet

Swiss | 1881
A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.
Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.
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