



103
Cartier
Tank Louis
An extremely rare and highly attractive tank-style wristwatch with black dial, retailed by Cartier Paris
- Estimate
- $15,000 - 30,000
$83,820
Lot Details
- Manufacturer
- Cartier
- Year
- Circa 1970s
- Case No
- 54'343
- Model Name
- Tank Louis
- Material
- 18K yellow gold
- Calibre
- Manual, cal. 78-1, 17 jewels
- Bracelet/Strap
- Leather
- Clasp/Buckle
- 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant buckle stamped “18'403”
- Dimensions
- 23mm width x 30.5mm length
- Signed
- Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Full-Cataloguing
Catalogue Essay
Few watch designs have transcended time, trends, and generations with the grace and cultural gravitas of the Cartier Tank Louis. First introduced in 1922 and named in honor of Louis Cartier, the model is widely considered the purest expression of the Tank design ethos—defined by its elongated rectangular case, clean dial symmetry, and classic roman numeral dial language.
While most vintage Tank Louis from the Maison feature the classic white dials with black Roman numerals, the present example stands out for its extraordinarily rare black lacquer dial, accented by crisp white Roman numerals and a discreet yet highly sought-after “Paris” signature below 6 o’clock. The inversion of Cartier’s traditional dial colors lends the watch an arresting graphic clarity and bold modernity, making it an outlier even among the rarest of Tanks. It is very likely that this configuration was specially commissioned for a distinguished client, a practice not uncommon during Cartier’s golden era of Parisian bespoke watchmaking.
Preserved in excellent condition, the case features rounded brancard lugs, a stepped bezel, crisp French hallmarks, and sapphire cabochon crown—hallmarks of vintage Cartier Paris craftsmanship. The dial, with its deep, inky lacquer surface and bold white numerals, exudes a quiet but unmistakable presence. With its combination of historical relevance, refined proportions, and an exceedingly rare dial variant, this Cartier Tank Louis is a captivating testament to the Maison’s enduring genius and one of the finest and rarest examples of a Tank Louis to emerge in the auction market in recent years.
While most vintage Tank Louis from the Maison feature the classic white dials with black Roman numerals, the present example stands out for its extraordinarily rare black lacquer dial, accented by crisp white Roman numerals and a discreet yet highly sought-after “Paris” signature below 6 o’clock. The inversion of Cartier’s traditional dial colors lends the watch an arresting graphic clarity and bold modernity, making it an outlier even among the rarest of Tanks. It is very likely that this configuration was specially commissioned for a distinguished client, a practice not uncommon during Cartier’s golden era of Parisian bespoke watchmaking.
Preserved in excellent condition, the case features rounded brancard lugs, a stepped bezel, crisp French hallmarks, and sapphire cabochon crown—hallmarks of vintage Cartier Paris craftsmanship. The dial, with its deep, inky lacquer surface and bold white numerals, exudes a quiet but unmistakable presence. With its combination of historical relevance, refined proportions, and an exceedingly rare dial variant, this Cartier Tank Louis is a captivating testament to the Maison’s enduring genius and one of the finest and rarest examples of a Tank Louis to emerge in the auction market in recent years.
Cartier
FrenchWith the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.
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