81
Rolex
Ref. 5513, inside cased back stamped III.64
Submariner
An extremely rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with sweep center seconds and black lacquer "double T < 25 underline" dial
- Estimate
- CHF40,000 - 80,000€37,100 - 74,100$39,600 - 79,300
CHF48,750
Lot Details
- Manufacturer
- Rolex
- Year
- Circa 1964
- Reference No
- 5513, inside cased back stamped III.64
- Case No
- 1'182'132
- Model Name
- Submariner
- Material
- Stainless steel
- Calibre
- Automatic, cal. 1530, 26 jewels
- Bracelet/Strap
- Leather
- Clasp/Buckle
- Stainless steel Rolex buckle
- Dimensions
- 39.5mm. Diameter
- Signed
- Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Specialist
Full-Cataloguing
Catalogue Essay
Launched in approximately 1962, reference 5513, along with reference 5512, was the first Submariner models to be fitted with crown guards. Its predecessors, such as reference 5508 or 6536/1 all featured a 'small crown', which Rolex deemed too delicate for a robust tool watch.
An especially alluring variant of reference 5513 is one fitted with a lacquer dial, such as the present watch. Produced until approximately 1967, lacquer, or gilt dials, impress with their glossy finish and golden text which catches the light beautifully. The present example features gold text and charismatic all-matching patina on the numerals and hands.
Another seemingly subtle detail truly sets this watch apart: the 'underline' below the Submariner signature, which collectors and historians hypothesize as signifying Rolex's use of tritium on the dial. The 'underline' is absolutely correct when one considers the serial number. Still featuring robust proportions, the present watch is unmistakably original and honest in its condition, separating itself from the quotidian.
Yet, making matters even more complex and interesting, is the double "T < 25" designation in addition to the Swiss signature at 6 o'clock. This designation is most notably seen on Explorer "3-6-9" reference 5513 dials. To find one fitted with a watch featuring luminous plots is quite extraordinary. The dial most likely started its life in the earliest stages of reference 5513's production. Having remained in the manufacture's stock, it can be concluded that Rolex added the underline and "double T <25" when the firm applied tritium on top of the existing original luminous material, due to changes in watch regulation. The watch was then assembled in 1964.
Most interestingly, watches fitted with reference 5513 "3-6-9" dials are usually found, as originally delivered, to the United Kingdom. It thus comes as no surprise, that the present watch also bears London watchmaker repair marks in the inside case back. Very fitting, as this example bears the same double "T<25" dial designation as the Explorer dial Submariner.
According to our research, the present watch is the only reference 5513 known to bear this dial configuration, enhancing its utter rarity.
An especially alluring variant of reference 5513 is one fitted with a lacquer dial, such as the present watch. Produced until approximately 1967, lacquer, or gilt dials, impress with their glossy finish and golden text which catches the light beautifully. The present example features gold text and charismatic all-matching patina on the numerals and hands.
Another seemingly subtle detail truly sets this watch apart: the 'underline' below the Submariner signature, which collectors and historians hypothesize as signifying Rolex's use of tritium on the dial. The 'underline' is absolutely correct when one considers the serial number. Still featuring robust proportions, the present watch is unmistakably original and honest in its condition, separating itself from the quotidian.
Yet, making matters even more complex and interesting, is the double "T < 25" designation in addition to the Swiss signature at 6 o'clock. This designation is most notably seen on Explorer "3-6-9" reference 5513 dials. To find one fitted with a watch featuring luminous plots is quite extraordinary. The dial most likely started its life in the earliest stages of reference 5513's production. Having remained in the manufacture's stock, it can be concluded that Rolex added the underline and "double T <25" when the firm applied tritium on top of the existing original luminous material, due to changes in watch regulation. The watch was then assembled in 1964.
Most interestingly, watches fitted with reference 5513 "3-6-9" dials are usually found, as originally delivered, to the United Kingdom. It thus comes as no surprise, that the present watch also bears London watchmaker repair marks in the inside case back. Very fitting, as this example bears the same double "T<25" dial designation as the Explorer dial Submariner.
According to our research, the present watch is the only reference 5513 known to bear this dial configuration, enhancing its utter rarity.
Rolex
Swiss | 1905Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
Browse Maker