The PHILLIPS Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIVIII, takes place on May 24 and 25, 2024, at our West Kowloon headquarters. The auction includes more than 280 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it's one of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale right here, including the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980 (lot 814) highlighted below.
– By Logan Baker
The Patek Philippe Nautilus changed in a major way in 2006.
It was the thirtieth anniversary of the Gérald Genta-designed integrated-bracelet sport watch, and it was the year the heir apparent to the original 3700, the now-legendary ref. 5711, was introduced to the world. The ref. 5712 with date, power reserve, and moonphase was also launched that year, as was the groundbreaking ref. 5980.
While the complications of the 5712 had been seen before in the Nautilus line with the short-lived ref. 3712, the all-new ref. 5980 was the first Nautilus ever to include a chronograph.
Inside the Nautilus ref. 5980 was Patek Philippe’s first in-house, self-winding chronograph, the caliber CH 28-520. To simplify the layout of the dial, Patek chose to combine all of the chronograph functions into one "bullseye" co-axial sub-dial for elapsed minutes and hours, similar to the format used on Patek's annual calendar chronograph ref. 5960.
The three o'clock date window is adjusted via a pusher on the case. That’s because this is the same caliber as the ref. 5960 chronograph with annual calendar. The actual chronograph pushers on the ref. 5980 were cleverly designed to mirror the recognizable bumper-style hinge of the Nautilus.
The desirability and lack of availability of the Nautilus ref. 5711, 5712, and 5980 would go on to define much of the popular discourse around Patek Philippe in the 17 years since 2006. And though the ref. 5711 was discontinued at the end of 2021, the ref. 5980 remains in production to this day, exclusively in its 18k pink gold (ref. 5980R-001 and 5980/1R-001) and two-tone (ref. 5980/1AR-001) configurations.
The stainless steel ref. 5980 was theoretically replaced in the Patek Philippe catalog by the ref. 5990, which adds a second time-zone display to the watch. However, if you're interested in acquiring a 5980 chronograph in the Nautilus' flagship metal of stainless steel, you'll have to hunt one down on the secondary market. The stainless-steel 5980 has been discontinued for almost a decade, since 2014.
Two separate dial configurations were offered for the ref. 5980 in stainless steel – the blue example came first, starting in 2006, followed by a black dial variation soon after. The first 18k pink gold examples, on a leather strap, came in 2010; while a two-tone 5980, in stainless steel and 18K pink gold, and a solid 18k pink gold 5980 with bracelet, were both added to the collection in 2013.
The black dial, stainless steel ref. 5980 is harder to find than its blue dial sibling.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII catalog here.
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