The PHILLIPS Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII, takes place on May 24 and 25, 2024, at our West Kowloon headquarters. The auction includes more than 280 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it's one of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale right here, including the variety of A. Lange & Söhne wristwatches highlighted below.
– By Logan Baker
A. Lange & Söhne only released one watch last year during Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023. They did better this year – they had two new wristwatches to show off to press, retailers, and curious clients. Both watches were from the Datograph family, and were, expectedly, as brilliant as they were attractive. There's a more traditional limited-edition Datograph with a blue dial and that's cased in 18k white gold, making it the first Datograph ever offered in the metal. And then there's the incredible Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen,” that – yes – is exactly as it sounds: the Datograph chronograph, paired with a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon, inside case made from the brand's proprietary Honeygold alloy and features the coveted, and extremely rare, "Lumen" aesthetic orientation. You could call it the "ultimate" A. Lange & Söhne wristwatch for collectors – I wouldn't argue with you.
These two Datograph models were announced to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Datograph's legacy-defining 1999 introduction. That's wonderful – however, 2024 happens to mark a large number of other important anniversaries for the brand as well. It's officially 30 years since A. Lange & Söhne was successfully reborn under the leadership of Günter Blümlein and descendent Walter Lange, which also means this year is also the 30th birthday for the brand's founding four collections: the Lange 1, the Saxonia, the Arkade, and the Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite.
The Arkade has long since been discontinued – but wouldn't it be incredible to see a limited-edition revival of Lange's original shaped wristwatch? The Lange 1 and Saxonia have remained a critical part of A. Lange & Söhne's existence every year since its rebirth – and the "Pour Le Mérite" nomenclature has been in active use, albeit far more limited than the Lange 1 and Saxonia, ever since 1994 as well.
Oh, and this year also happens to mark the 15th anniversary for the Zeitwerk – another legacy-defining wristwatch for A. Lange & Söhne. It's clear our German watchmaking friends like to incorporate a base-five annum system for their big introductions, but it can quickly become overwhelming for clients – and watchmakers.
Especially since it's common knowledge among A. Lange & Söhne's client base that they're struggled to deliver product ever since the pandemic reared its ugly head four years ago. My understanding is that the titanium version of the Odysseus, revealed at Watches & Wonders 2022, is just now being delivered to the first round of clients. That's two years of waiting for those lucky to receive their watch in the first batch.
A. Lange & Söhne has followed a fairly conventional release schedule the past few years. They release something noteworthy during Watches & Wonders, followed by a late summer introduction that's typically an incremental update focused on aesthetics or mechanical upgrades, with a final tentpole release in late October, to celebrate the official date that brand relaunched in 1994 (October 24).
Is there enough space on the calendar for A. Lange & Söhne to support all these different models with commemorative releases? And how will they manage client expectations over the delivery of existing orders with the production of potentially a large number of special-edition products?
Unfortunately, I have no answers as of right now – as always, we'll just have to wait and see what happens in the coming months. Meanwhile, we have a complete treasure trove of 13 different A. Lange & Söhne wristwatches, from all different eras in the brand's modern history, to drool over as part of the Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII.
Lots 1020, 1021, 1022: Two Circa 2006 A. Lange & Söhne 1815 'Cuvette' Editions, ref. 323.046 in 18k white gold or ref. 323.047 in 18k pink gold, each limited to 38 pieces to celebrate the centennial of the Oeding-Erdel Jeweler in Münster, Germany.
Estimate, Lot 1020: HKD $170,000 - 350,000
Estimate, Lot 1021: HKD $170,000 - 350,000
Estimate, Lot 1022: HKD $10,000 - 20,000
This collection draws inspiration from the pocket watch era of the brand and pays tribute to the golden age of pocket watches. It features thick Arabic numerals, a railway minute track, and a unique variation with four red lines instead of the usual three dots for each 15-minute marker. Notably, this is the first A. Lange & Söhne watch to have a hinged case back, which is engraved with "Oeding Erdel – 1906-2006."
In line with German precision, the watch incorporates the zero-reset mechanism, allowing for perfect timing setting when the crown is pulled out. Adding to its uniqueness, this reference has an unusually large 40mm diameter. It is powered by the exquisite movement caliber L921.2, which is wound by the iconic SAX-O-MAT off-centred platinum and 21K gold micro rotor.
The 1815 "Cuvette" series is available in both pink gold (lot 1020) and white gold versions (lot 1021), with each variant limited to a total of only 38 pieces. Notably, the two versions available in the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII are both number one in their individual series. Lot 1022, meanwhile, is a special leather box that was specially made to house the pair of limited-edition timepieces. Only 10 of these boxes were offered to Oeding-Erdel's clients – lot 1022 is marked "Limitierte Edition Set 1/10" and "Oeding-Erdel," matching the numbering on the watches.
Lot 823: A Circa 2004 A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 'Sincere Edition,' limited to 100 pieces, in platinum
Estimate: HKD $200,000 - 400,000
Since its introduction in 1994, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 has garnered immense popularity among collectors, thanks to its distinctive asymmetric dial design that embodies the perfect ratio and architecture of the golden triangle.
The present iteration, sized at a perfect 38.5mm , combines rarity, aesthetics, and traditional German watchmaking in a single timepiece. Released in 2003, the Lange 1 ref. 112.049 was created as a limited edition of 100 pieces exclusively for the Singaporean retailer Sincere Fine Watches.
Encased in noble platinum, the dial of this watch is where the true magic happens. It features a distinguished and signature pattern with vertical stripes, which is further echoed in the Glashütte waves found on the movement. The dials are further finished in a two-tone fashion, showcasing a beautifully executed engine-turned guilloché pattern at the center which is an incredibly rare sight to behold in modern watchmaking.
Complete with all its accessories, this timepiece presents a remarkable opportunity to own a substantial Lange 1 that is both exclusive and highly sought after, an enticing acquisition for discerning collectors.
Lots 959, 960: Two A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 variants, including a circa 2022 Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar ref. 345.056 and a circa 2008 Grand Lange 1 Blue Italia ref. 115.046, both in 18k white gold
Estimate, Lot 959: HKD $600,000 - 1,200,000
Estimate, Lot 960: HKD $130,000 - 250,000
Since its debut in 1994 after A. Lange & Söhne's reestablishment, the Lange 1 has embodied the maison's quest for horological perfection. In the decades since, few timepieces have garnered more acclaim than this foundational icon. The original four Lange 1 models encapsulated a courageous new beginning, while upholding Lange's distinguished German watchmaking heritage. Its bold asymmetric dial layout with outsized date and off-center time display marked a contemporary stylistic code that later influenced watch design industry-wide.
In 2020, Lange released two new Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar references, including lot 959, an exclusive limited edition of 150 pieces in white gold with a sublime 18K pink gold dial, or as some may call it the highly desirable “Salmon” dial. Rather than utilizing an existing movement minus the tourbillon, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar is powered by the new cal. L021.3. The dial exquisitely showcases the perpetual calendar, with the month indicated via a ring along the periphery and read by a gold pointer at 6 o'clock.
Though similar to its predecessor, refinements include integrating the day/night indicator into the moonphase and redesigning the time subdial to match the Lange 1 Moon Phase. Numbered 125 of 150 and accompanied by its full set of accessories, the present example remains within its original guarantee period. Offered in virtually unworn condition, Collectors are treated to Lange's exemplary perpetual calendar watchmaking artistry with this exclusive timepiece.
Meanwhile, lot 960, adorned with blued steel hands, is not your typical Grand Lange 1 found in the market. Nicknamed the "Blue Italia", it was specifically produced for the Italian market and was only made between 2007 and 2009. Limited to only 100 pieces, the current watch, numbered 82, is exceptionally well-preserved, barely worn, and is accompanied by its full set of accessories. Given its scarcity, this particular reference is rarely offered in the market where it essentially holds a special place in the hearts of many Lange enthusiasts and collectors.
Lot 995: A circa 2011 A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon ref. 703.032F in 18k rose gold
Estimate: HKD $240,000 - 480,000
In 2008, A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Cabaret Tourbillon, marking another revolutionary milestone as it was the first wristwatch to feature a mechanism that stops the tourbillon when the crown is pulled out. This innovative yet complicated feature allows for more accurate time-setting . Available in platinum or pink gold cases, the Cabaret Tourbillon was produced for five years before being discontinued and it is estimated that only around 250 pieces were ever made.
The present watch encased in pink gold features a sophisticated three-body case, enhanced by a stepped bezel and distinctive protruding lugs. The elegant silvered dial exhibits a balanced Art Deco design with a power reserve indicator at 4 o'clock and the small seconds at 8 o'clock, creating a perfect symmetrical composition.
Through the sapphire case back, the wearer can appreciate the Maillechort plates and bridges, which are decorated with the signature ribbing pattern and meticulously chamfered to achieve the highest level of finishing. One of the highlights is the unique hand-engraved bridges for the transmission wheel and the tourbillon carriage, showcasing the Lange's signature pattern. In a nod to their tradition of pocket watches, the tourbillon cage is held by diamond end-stones on both sides.
Exemplifying a fusion of craftsmanship and technological prowess, this minimalist tourbillon wristwatch epitomizes elegance and represents watchmaking excellence from the Glashütte tradition. It is a perfect choice for watch aficionados seeking a timepiece that combines artistry and technical innovation.
Lot 822: A circa 2023 A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Lumen ref. 142.055 in proprietary Honeygold
Estimate: HKD $780,000 - 1,500,000
The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk shattered conventions and showcased the enduring craftsmanship that has defined the brand for centuries. Inspired by the clock in Dresden's Semper Opera House, the watch features a unique "sky bridge" time display. It introduced symmetrical jumping hour and minute numerals, a groundbreaking innovation at the time.
Among the limited edition timepieces from A. Lange & Söhne, the Lumen series stands out as a favorite among brand lovers and enthusiasts. What sets this series apart is the special tinted dial that allows UV light to pass through, charging the luminous material beneath it. This results in fully luminous discs that transform the appearance of the timepiece at night. The Lumen series was first introduced in 2010 with the Zeitwerk model and received a facelift version in 2021.
In the case of the Lumen Zeitwerk, A. Lange & Söhne opted for their most exclusive material, honey gold. This patented in-house developed alloy emits a distinctive and unique warm golden hue. Apart from its exotic appearance, honey gold is a durable and more scratch -resistant compared to conventional yellow gold due to its increased hardness. Another notable feature of the new Lumen is the addition of a pusher on the side of the case, which was absent in previous time-only Zeitwerk models. This pusher allows for separate adjustment of the hour indication, simplifying the process of setting the time.
When A. Lange & Söhne unveiled the Zeitwerk collection at SIHH in 2009, it marked a new era for the brand. With its highly legible layout and sought-after lumen dial, the honey gold version of the Zeitwerk offers an impressive and game-changing design that is sure to capture the attention of Lange aficionados. Only limited to 200 pieces, the current numbered “133” is in “like-new” condition, the original factory stickers are still partially adhered to the case and we are thrilled to present this first Zeitwerk “Lumen” to be sold in auction.
Lots 824, 868: Another pair of A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 variants, including a circa 1998 Lange 1 ref. 101.031 with a black dial and a circa 2003 Lange 1 Tourbillon ref. 704.032, both in 18k rose gold
Estimate, Lot 824: HKD $90,000 - 160,000
Estimate, Lot 868: HKD $400,000 - 800,000
Lot 824, a Lange 1 ref. 101.031 was introduced in 1998 as part of an expansion of the Lange 1 repertoire, and made available in the striking combination of 18K pink gold with black dial. Early pink gold Lange 1 cases are fully polished, rather than polished sides and bezel with brushed finishing to the caseback. To further set this example apart, it bears a sought-after early “MIG” dial, with the earliest font for the “Made in Germany” designation. “DOPPELFEDERHAUS” features a typeface that is kerned with a wider spacing . The subdials are very subtly guillochéd, adding a touch of contrast against the inky blackness of the dial. Powering the Lange 1 is the early caliber L901.0 that was the first iteration movement built by A. Lange & Söhne.
Highly attractive and well -preserved by the original owner, the present timepiece is further accompanied by its original accessories. Please note that the proceeds of the sale of the present watch will be given by the Consignor to various charities.
Meanwhile, lot 868, a Lange 1 Tourbillon is an emblematic example of the supreme level of quality and finish synonymous with the brand name A. Lange & Söhne. After the revival of the firm in 1990, A. Lange & Söhne launched their iconic Lange 1 model in 1994, featuring an unusual asymmetric dial design with a distinctive large date positioned at the 1 o'clock, and a power reserve indication in retrograde style from 2 to 4 o'clock. In 2000, A. Lange & Söhne released a series of Lange 1 models featuring various complications, including the present Lange 1 Tourbillon. It was released as a limited edition in precious metals, with 250 pieces in 18K pink gold and 150 pieces in platinum. The model was in production for 3 years before its discontinuance in 2003.
Encased in a classic and highly wearable 38.5mm traditional round case, the tourbillon escapement composed of 72 individual parts is flawlessly positioned at the 5 o'clock of the dial, perfecting the enchantment of the asymmetric Lange 1 dial design. The sapphire caseback further showcases the manufacture's signature three-quarter plate composed of German silver and its hand-engraved balance cock, consisting of the brand's signature flower petals motif.
Beautifully preserved, the present example in 18K pink gold numbered 210 is presented in excellent overall condition. Complete with its original guarantee and presentation box, the present Lange 1 Tourbillon from circa 2003 is a splendid addition to the collection of any serious collector.
Lot 1023: A circa 2005 A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual ref. 310.021 in 18k yellow gold
Estimate: HKD $200,000 - 360,000
Fusing delicate designs with everyday function, the Langematik Perpetual is one of the most sought-after interpretations among A. Lange & Söhne's perpetual calendar variety. The most apparent characteristic of this yellow gold ref. 310.021 is its large date windows at 12. Easily recognisable as one of the first iterations to offer this display, it became a recurring feature included in many of the German watchmakers' later models. Following this attribute, the traditional perpetual calendar dial layout consists of three smaller subsidiary counters: a moon phase indication, a 24-hour indication, a leap year indication, along with a patented zero-reset mechanism that assures fast and precise time-setting.
The combination of these intricate complications has resulted in a beautifully balanced cream dial framed with an elegant yellow gold case. What makes this present example extra special is its condition. Crisp and untouched since its original purchase, the timepiece has sat in its winding box ever since. Unboxed for the first time, the Langematik Perpetual has developed and intense yellow patina throughout the case. Highly attractive and cherished by the original owner, the A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual ref. 310.021 is a time capsule collector piece.
Lot 961: A circa 2017 A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange ref. 232.026 in 18k white gold
Estimate: HKD $160,000 - 320,000
The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange collection is most appealing to watch purists who prioritize chronometry over complications. While the Lange 1 and Datograph collections receive considerable attention and discussion, the Richard Lange lineup offers a distinct focus on precision timekeeping.
Introduced in 2006 as a revival of scientific observatory watches, the Richard Lange family features a traditional three-hand design with a prominent sweep seconds hand. The reference 232.026, specifically, is encased in white gold and showcases the signature blued hands and accents that are icons of A. Lange & Söhne timepieces. This particular model introduced in 2013 is exclusively available in A. Lange & Söhne boutiques.
Seamlessly blending traditional Saxonian watchmaking techniques with a contemporary touch, the Richard Lange collection resulted in timeless and wearable aesthetics. Powered by the manufacturer's in- house caliber L041.2, a manual-winding movement that contains hacking seconds for precise time setting. These watches exemplify A. Lange & Söhne's distinctive design language and commitment towards watchmaking excellence.
Lots 809, 810: Two A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus examples, including a circa 2021 ref. 363.179 in stainless steel and a circa 2022 ref. 363.068 in 18k white gold
Estimate, Lot 809: HKD $200,000 - 350,000
Estimate, Lot 810: HKD $240,000 - 400,000
A. Lange & Söhne made a significant milestone with the release of their first luxury sports watch in 2019, the Odysseus. This timepiece offered a fresh perspective and a departure from the brand's traditional designs. While it inherited the signature DNA of A. Lange & Söhne with its outsized day and date display, the Odysseus featured a completely new case design that distinguished it from other sports watches in the market. Unlike the typical stainless steel water-resistant timepieces envisioned by Gérald Genta, the Odysseus presented a unique aesthetic that garnered polarizing reactions from collectors upon its initial release.
Lot 819, ref. 363.179, is powered by the caliber L155.1 Datomatic which showcases impeccable finishes matching A. Lange & Söhne's tradition, including an engraved balance cock with a stylized wave pattern instead of the more commonly seen floral decoration . Not surprisingly, the Odysseus quickly captured the attention of discerning collectors and became one of the most sought-after timepieces from the brand, resulting in long waiting lists.
The present Odysseus with a blue dial is in pristine condition and comes with its guarantee and presentation box. It is undoubtedly a timepiece that will catch the eye of seasoned Lange collectors, offering a unique addition to their collection.
Its opulent white gold counterpart, ref. 363.068 (lot 810), followed in 2020 with a seductive gray dial and matching rubber strap for everyday comfort. This modern heirloom showcases Lange's meticulous finishing, from the textured gray dial with stellate embossing to the sapphire caseback revealing the hand-polished cal. L155.1 movement.
With continuous surging demand for the Odysseus and limited availability of this model, the present example preserved in “like-new” condition protected by its original stickers and accompanied by its original accessories delivers a rare opportunity for collectors to secure an elegant yet sporty icon designed for the modern connoisseur.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII catalog right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
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