The PHILLIPS Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII, takes place on May 24 and 25, 2024, at our West Kowloon headquarters. The auction includes more than 280 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it's one of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale right here, including the selection of wristwatches with enamel dials featured below.
Cloisonné. Champlevé. Paillonné. Grand feu. Miniature painting.
What do all these terms have in common? They’re different types of enameling used in watchmaking.
Enamel is one of the oldest and most precious crafts found in horology, but not every enamel dial is made the same way. Below, we explore some of the most common enameling techniques thanks to our selection of enameled timepieces available in the upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII.
Several enamel techniques emerged during the 17th and 18th century, the most popular in watchmaking being:
- Miniature painting: vitrous enamel is painted directly onto the metal, as the shown in the examples below.
- Cloisonné enamelling: fine wires are fused onto the metal’s surface to create separate cavities which are filled with the enamel paste, fired, and hand-finished.
- Champlevé enamel: cavities are created by removing metal, usually by the hand of a skilled engraver, in order to hold the paste. Similarly it enamel is then fired and the surface is sanded by hand.
- Paillonné enamel: A "paillon" (a piece of foil) is placed between two layers of enamel in order to create an interesting shimmering effect.
Lot 837: A Circa 1997 Vacheron Constantin Audubon Birds of America 'Raven'
Estimate: HKD $240,000 - 480,000
The Vacheron Constantin Audubon “Birds of America” is a delightful watch that invites us to step back, take a deep breath and appreciate crafts that require time and patience.
The cloisonné enamel dial is inspired by the works of 19th Century American ornithologist, naturalist and painter John J. Audubon and his book Birds of America. He was notable for his expansive studies to document all types of American birds and for his detailed illustrations that depict the birds in their natural habitats. His major work, a color-plate book entitled Birds of America (1827–1839), is considered one of the finest ornithological works ever completed. Audubon identified 25 new species. A series launched in 1996, Vacheron Constantin's created 10 watches depicting ten different birds paying tribute to the artist.
Proudly dominating the canvas of this timepiece is the incredibly intelligent ebony black Raven. Vividly sculpted by gold wires, the intricate work from the enameler brought this Raven to life as it is about to take flight off a scenery of bright greens and golden berries. Elegantly dictating time with Equally sophisticated round golden markers, the dial boast an attractive rich cream hue that perfectly complements its yellow gold case.
Hidden underneath a hinged caseback revealed by the push of a button is a beautifully finished cal.1120/2 movement that bears the prestigious honour of a Geneva seal. The skeletonized rotor takes shape of the Maltese Cross and is further engraved with gorgeous details. Complete with its certificate and accessories, it's the condition of the present timepiece that is exquisite. Covered in its original blued factory stickers, this is an exceptional “new-old-stock” example from its series. An absolute delight for collectors, here is a superb chance to add this artwork to your ever growing collection.
Lot 840: A Circa 2000s Cartier Collection Privée Pasha de Cartier 'Congo Gray Parrot'
Estimate: HKD $240,000 - 480,000
Inspired from a wristwatch from the early 1930s, The Pasha of Marrakesh, Thami El Glaoui ordered a specific timepiece from Louis Cartier. Cased in yellow gold, the watch presented was one that could withstand the active lifestyle of Pasha that was water-resistant to a certain level, a unique feature at the time. To accomplish that, the watch was equipped with a larger case diameter, a crown cover and a metal grid to protect the dial.
The birth of the Pasha was in 1985 during the quartz crisis released by Alain Dominique Perrin, Cartier's CEO at the time. Designed by famed designer, Gerald Genta, the Pasha embodied a masculine appeal that remained in line with Cartier's iconic elegance.
The present Cartier Pasha is easily one of the most playful iterations of the model from the 2000s . Produced in a cloisonée enamel limited series in white gold, the vivid and playful expression of the Congo African gray parrot steals the spotlight with its beautiful shades of grey. Each layer of its feathers are carefully defined by the master enameller, each curve of the shimmering gold wire forms the beautiful and intelligent creature. Anchored by four baguette diamond-set indexes with claw setting that resembles the 4 toes of the parrot's feet, the amusing bird is surrounded in the tropical of green and yellow. Powered by the caliber 311B decorated With the iconic Collection Privée pattern, the present timepiece is an exquisite choice for the flamboyant and quick-witted collector.
Lots 972, 973, 974, 975: A Quartet of Circa 2006 Patek Philippe Calatrava 5076P with Cloisonné Enamel Fish, Sold Individually
Individual Estimates for All Four Lots: HKD $320,000 - 600,000
The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts collection is renowned for its exceptional rarity and exquisite artisanship. This collection encompasses not only wristwatches but also dome clocks and pocket watches, providing a perfect canvas for showcasing the brand's craftsmanship. Enameling, a traditional decorative technique that holds a significant place in Patek Philippe's history. Master enamelers such as Susanne Rohr and Anita Porchet have established themselves as highly respected figures, with their works with Patek Philippe often achieving record-breaking prices at auctions.
The platinum Gondolo case of this watch provides an elegant frame for the captivating scenery depicted on the dial. The use of the cloisonné enamel technique adds to the complexity and beauty of the watch. This technique involves decorating the dial with thin gold wires and applying enamel, which is then heated to achieve the perfect color. However, due to the delicate nature of the process, the failure rate is high, with the possibility of cracking during the heating process.
The four fish featured in this run include a pair of clownfish among sea anemone (lot 972), a pair of bluecheek butterfly fish with coral (lot 973), a pair of orangetail butterflyfish in a sea meadow (lot 974), and a pair of yellowtail threadfin butterflyfish swimming in a seabed (lot 975).
Lot 838: A Circa 2000s Jaeger-LeCoultre Grand Reverso Émail Friedrich Ref. 246.1.15
Estimate: HKD $80,000 - 160,000
True mastery craftmanship unfolds as the wearer swivels this Grand Reverso to its reverse. As complex as it is meticulous, a romantic seascape of three elegantly dressed silhouettes gaze outwards to the horizon as the moon rises to the east above a band of violet clouds, this is one of the renowned masterpieces from the most prominent Romanticism German artist Caspar David Friedrich, Mondaufgang am Meer “Moonrise by the Sea.”
Extremely demanding resulting highly limited production, the present Grand Reverso is one of five pieces ever created of such painting. Numbered 5 from the edition, this is the final piece to be completed in-house by master enameller atelier led by the talented Miklos Merczel with a heritage in Vallee de Joux since 1996.
The main dial is in the most discreet look, a white Grand feu enamel canvas that displays its function in the most legible manner. Elegantly placed, a power reserve of a total of 8 days anchors the top left corner across the blue chemin de fer, followed by the date and small seconds that can be read at ease.
Exceptionally preserved and complete with its certificate and accessories, the present yellow gold timepiece is truly a hidden treasure amongst the world of Reversos. Expressing the grandeur of both the painter and master enameller, this is easily one of the most collectible reverso for those who has a passion for horology and art. Please note that the proceeds of the sale of the present watch will be given by the Consignor to various charities.
Lot 1002: A Circa 2009 Montblanc Villeret 1858 Grand Chronographe Émail Grand Feu Ref. 103846
Estimate: HKD $65,000 - 130,000
To celebrate the 150th anniversary of Minerva manufacture, the Montblanc Villeret 1858 Grand Chronographe Émail Grand Feu was released in 2008. The production of the timepiece was limited to 1 unique piece in platinum, 8 pieces in 18K white gold and 58 pieces in pink gold, referencing the year of 1858 when Minerva was founded in Villeret. The present pink gold example features a magnificent white Grand feu enameled dial, created by dusting enamel powder onto a gold disc and heating it at very high temperatures repeatedly in successive layers. The present watch is the perfect combination of exquisite traditional craftsmanship and fine watchmaking technique.
The Montblanc Villeret caliber MB M16.29 is inspired by the original Minerva caliber 17.29 made for wristwatches and pocket watches from the 1930s. The plates and bridges of the movement of the present watch are made in accordance with the highest standards of traditional watchmaking. The circular-grained baseplate is made up of rhodium-plated German silver, and the beautifully hand-chamfered bridges are embellished by circular-graining and Côtes de Genève. Every single component of the column wheel chronograph movement is carried out meticulously by hand and is aligned to enable tolerances of a hundredth of a millimetre.
The present watch further bears the signature of master watchmaker Demetrio Cabiddu on the inner surface of the hinged cuvette, with the winding crown is adorned by the Montblanc symbol set in genuine mother-of-pearl. Numbered 04 in a limited production of only 58 pieces, and offered with its Certificate of Origin and presentation box, this present example is without a doubt an extremely well-executed timepiece of true haute horlogerie.
Lot 979: A Circa 2015 Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Paillonné for 'Only Watch'
Estimate: HKD $80,000 - 160,000
The Jaquet Droz family belongs to a long line of Neuchätel clockmakers renowned for developing watchmaking to the highest level of technical excellence. Pierre Jaquet-Droz and his son Henri-Louis are both master horological inventors who have created extraordinary clocks and automata together and have toured the royal courts of Europe and China with their stunning creations. The first Jaquet Droz workshop was opened in 1738, and they have been perpetuating the spirit of innovation and aesthetic refinement ever since. Moreover, they were the first to establish their manufacture in Geneva in 1784.
Saluting the rich tradition and virtuosity of Jaquet Droz, the present Petite Heure Minute Paillonné is a unique piece first offered at Only Watch 2015 and sold for CHF35,000. For the first time, Jaquet Droz combines Paillennée enamelling with a yellow gold case measuring 43mm diameter for one of its most emblematic models. The ancient art of Pailionne enameling is an extremely difficult ornamental technique. It consists of creating a raised motif using tiny pieces of gold leaf, applied one by one with great dexterity. This is further coupled with the delicate work of enamelling for obtaining both the required colors and the translucency of the enamel to reveal the sunray decoration underneath. The deep bordeaux red (referencing the Monaco flag) Grand feu enamel dial on the present timepiece is embellished by exquisite floral motifs, and the result is breathtaking.
Powered by the caliber 2653.P with 68 hours of power reserve, the movement of the present watch is also equipped with a silicon spiral, the first time that Jaquet Droz incorporates the material in a Petite Heure Minute. material boasts flexibility and resistance to shocks, and thus contributes to stable performance over time. Offered in excellent overall condition, the present watch is a magnificent unique piece that boasts supreme craftsmanship and is truly a wonder to behold.
Lot 996: A Circa 2017 Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Repetition Minutes Ref. 26590PT
Estimate: HKD $780,000 - 1,560,000
Audemars Piguet's "Minute Repeater Supersonnerie" stands as the epitome of luxury wristwatches, with this complication extending to both dress watches and even Royal Oak cases. This complication represents a true gem in Audemars Piguet's technical expertise while paying homage to their longstanding history of watchmaking. The original "Concept Supersonnerie" was unveiled in 2014, showcasing Audemars Piguet's exceptional mastery of complications. The timepiece presented a fresh interpretation of a historic design, aiming to create a loud and melodious tone from a minute repeater.
Designed as a musical instrument, the complication garnered three patents: one for the gongs, one for a refined regulator, and the third for a tone-enhancing caseback with apertures that avoid obstructing the sound, a departure from the norm seen in most repeaters. This allows the watch to produce a chime when worn on the wrist compared to when it is not.
The present watch showcases a mesmerizing blue smoky enamel dial, exuding an irresistible charm. The organic nature of enamel and the skillful craftsmanship involved in its production make every dial truly unique. shades of blue transition from lighter tones at the center to darker hues towards the edges, creating a captivating depth and richness of color. The Roman numerals on the dial are also made from enamel and during the painstaking production process, they were melted and fused into the blue enamel surface.
Further exemplifying the watchmaker's artistry, the caseback features an engraving depicting a master watchmaker at his workbench. Encased in hefty platinum, the present watch is in nearly new condition, and its minute repeater mechanism is widely regarded as one of the The loudest and most sonorous available. It is offered complete with its warranty card and presentation box, presenting a remarkable opportunity for collectors to acquire a truly exceptional timepiece.
Lot 896: A 1955 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 2526 in 18k Yellow Gold
Estimate: HKD $150,000 - 250,000
Arguably one of the most timeless and elegant time-only reference ever created by Patek Philippe, it is impossible not to adore the reference 2526. Making its debut in 1953, it marks an important horological milestone as Patek Philippe's first-ever serially produced automatic wristwatch . Its practical self-winding caliber is combined with an unbeatable classic design with the tastefully executed off-white enamel dial. Produced in all metals including yellow gold, pink gold, white gold and platinum, it is estimated that only approximately 2,500 examples were produced during its production span until 1960, and an estimated 2,350 examples were encased in yellow gold across all four series.
This attractive yellow gold example is from the second series, featuring a domed screw-down case back, an exquisite enamel dial with laid indexes, period-correct smaller 6 o'clock index and the charming original forged “double P” crown. In equal measure to its appearance, the caliber 12-600 inside the watch is often considered one of the best automatic movements ever created. This is because Patek Philippe, like all other manufacturers, was not able to use a rotor to create an automatic movement until the Rolex patent expired. Patek Philippe focused on improving the mechanism for over two decades while they were patiently waiting for the Rolex patent to expire, and the finesse of the caliber 12-600 is the result of this great endeavour.
Offered in great overall condition, and delivered with a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming its year of manufacture in 1955, the present example is truly a splendid epitome of elegance , and a rare gem that should not be missed by the discerning connoisseur.
Lots 1018, 1019: A Pair of Lang & Heyne models with enamel dials, including a König Albert Von Sachsen in platinum and a Friedrich August I No. 33 in 18k rose gold
Estimate, Lot 1018: HKD $160,000 - 220,000
Estimate, Lot 1019: HKD $60,000 - 120,000
Headquartered in Dresden, Germany, the independent brand Lang & Heyne was founded in 2001 by two talented young watchmakers, Marco Lang and Mirko Heyne. Embodying the quintessential handcrafted Saxon tradition, their incredible artisanal finesse and philosophy rapidly garnered a cult following among collectors.
Debuted at Baselworld 2013, the present König Albert (lot 1018) exudes vintage charm. Its clean platinum case integrates the chronograph pusher seamlessly into the crown, topped by a superb enamel dial with Roman numerals and railway tracks that amplify legibility. Co-axial chronograph hands allow for a balanced design without counters beyond the subtle six o'clock running seconds. The Lang & Heyne workshop highlights watchmaking's artisanal side, producing merely 15 screws per day by hand - hard to fathom considering the time required to create each watch. It is thought their yearly production rarely exceeds triple digits, emphasizing meticulous quality over quantity.
Preserved in outstanding condition along with its full set of accessories, this platinum example numbered 7 represents a supremely elegant and refined timepiece certain to entice connoisseurs who appreciate modern classics crafted with respect for tradition. Its limited availability and exquisite details position Lang & Heyne as a rising star among independent watchmaking.
Meanwhile, the present Freidrich August I (lot 1019) was inspired by a unique and glamorous period of Saxony's politics and culture under his reign. The model pays homage to the love for art and taste for beauty, evidently on the beautifully sculpted three lugged pink gold case. Proportioned with sophistication and discreet elegance, the present Friedrich August I cased in 43.5mm diameter pink gold with a stunning double sunken enamel white dial features a graceful set of Louis XV styled hands. The minute indication is in red to give the overall timepiece a touch of modernness from its classical design.
On the reserve is a breath-taking exhibition the golden grained in-house Caliber I equipped with a second hand stop mechanism that displays incredible craftsmanship. Each component from the engraved balance cock down to each individual large blued screw is made entirely in-house. The winding feature wheels a stunning snailed finish, and its balance bridge with the elegant swan-neck is crowned by a sparkling diamond on top. Considering that the workshop produces not more than 15 screws a day, it is hard to believe the amount of time Lang & Heyne uses to create an entire wristwatch.
Offered by the original owner and preserved in excellent overall condition, the present example numbered 33 produced from the early years of the Lang & Heyne. Please note that the proceeds of the sale of the present watch will be given by the Consignor to various charities.
Lot 963: A Circa 1992 Breguet Heures Sautantes Ref. 3420 BA in 18k Yellow Gold
Estimate: HKD $110,000 - 180,000
The introduction of the jumping hour mechanism is broadly attributed to the Austrian engineer Josef Pallweber in 1883, and the jumping hour was very fashionable in the mid-18th century and later during the Art Deco period. During the Roaring Twenties, they were produced by eminent names of watchmaking, including Breguet, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, but the fashion declined with the Great Depression, and ended definitively by World War 2 only to see a rebirth in the early 1990s. The present Breguet reference 3420 BA from circa 1992 marks a continuation to the tradition, and it is a splendid display of technical mastery with the jumping hours movement.
The timepiece boasts a very simple dial design. The only graphic details are the signature at 6, discreet dotted minute divisions, and the black Breguet numerals. The hour is subtly indicated in red through an aperture positioned at 12 o'clock. A hidden Breguet signature is delightfully revealed under the 60 minutes when the dial is put under specific lighting condition. Complementing the minimalistic dial design, the watch has retained some familiar characteristics emblematic of Breguet's timeless elegance, including the "Breguet" blued steel minute hand, Breguet style lugs, caseband fluting, and winding crown with a sapphire cabochon.
Preserved in excellent condition, and accompanied by the original Breguet certificate of origin dated December 1992 and Stamped Friedrich Haute Joaillerie, Frankfurt, the present timepiece, numbered 260 of a limited edition of 800 pieces, is a most charming and unusual early example epitomizing the subtle and supremely elegant Breguet design.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII catalog right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
Recommended Reading
Discover Cartier's Extraordinary Clockmaking History This Auction Season At Phillips