The PHILLIPS Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII, takes place on May 24 and 25, 2024, at our West Kowloon headquarters. The auction includes more than 280 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it's one of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale right here, including the variety of Cartier wristwatches highlighted below.
The pair of exceptional and unique Cartier clocks (lots 933, 934) included in the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII have captured much of our attention so far, but they are far from the only Cartier highlights included in the catalog.
Our latest editorial highlights a few of the many wonderful Cartier wristwatches available in the sale.
Lot 826: A Circa 2023 Cartier Privée Collection Tank Normale
Estimate: HKD $160,000 - 300,000
Each year at Watches & Wonders, Cartier reveals a historic model to be added to the Privée collectors' collection. The star of the show joining the family this year in 2023, is a long waited one, the Cartier Tank Normale, the original Tank.
Taking inspiration from the Renault FT-17 tanks from WWI with obvious design cues, the Cartier Tank made in platinum debuted in 1917 with the first piece offer to General John Pershing. The new model was launched with a total of six limited edition variants in yellow gold and platinum.
Framed with satin-brushed finished brancards and high polished chamfers to create a clean and bold aesthetic, a bevelled sapphire crystal that resembles ones on the vintage original sits atop of a matching satin-brushed dial. Beautifully proportioned, the dial features strong Cartier DNA with Roman numerals and a chemin de fer track. An unexpected easter egg can be found on the VII numeral, commonly hidden as the secret signature of the Parisian House, the dial for the Tank Normale now features “1917.”
Produced in a limited edition of only 200 pieces and a sensation that commanded collectors to waitlist this piece for its beauty, the timepiece is paired with a classic crocodile strap and platinum Cartier buckle, on the wrist, it sits beautifully with impeccable style. Presented in absolutely unworn condition and numbered 58, this is a "brand-new" example with its original stickers intact on the caseback. Here's a spectacular chance to skip the waiting list to acquire one of the most handsome release by Cartier.
Lot 898: A Circa 1990s Cartier Tank Cintrée Dual Time in Platinum
Estimate: HKD $240,000 - 470,000
The Cartier Tank Cintrée was born in 1921, 2 years after the birth of the original Cartier Tank. Perpetuating the traits of its predecessor, the Tank Cintrée has evolved into an elongated rectangular case with elegant curves that sits comfortably on the wrist, and it soon became one of the most celebrated icons of the maison. In the 1990's, Cartier went on to create the Tank Cintrée dual-time with an endearing split dial for dual-time display. Containing two manually wound movements operated by two faceted crowns fitted into a single case, the timepiece is a poetic union of form and function.
Imbued with charming Parisian flamboyance and glamor, the stunning salmon dial of the present example would not fail to mesmerize the viewer. It features an alluring shade of salmon meticulously crafted with guilloché pattern that emanates from the Cartier signature at the center of the dial and then flows across to the rest of the dial. This is opposed to the guilloché pattern seen on the other CPCP Dual Time models, which usually stems from the center of each of the two dials. It is an intoxicating sight to see the dial shimmer under different lighting, emitting an array of alluring salmon hues.
The top dial of the present example is adorned with applied Roman numerals for all 12 hour markers, and the second time-zone display below is differentiated by the clean display of 12, 3, 6, and 9 only. Paired with the seductive platinum Tank Cintrée case with its long case sides, curved back and two faceted octagonal crowns with sapphire cabochons, this timepiece is a true marvel of finesse and design ingenuity.
Numbered 27 in a limited edition of only 50 pieces, and offered in attractive condition and accompanied by original certificate, the present example is a rare gem not to be missed by the discerning collectors.
Lot 839: A Circa 2001 Cartier Crash Ref. 2463 in 18k Pink Gold With Diamond Bezel
Estimate: HKD $500,000 - 1,000,000
The Cartier Crash, a timepiece shrouded in mystery and intrigue, first graced the horological world in 1967. To celebrate this iconic model and its enduring legacy, Cartier released a limited edition series in the 1990s, breathing new life into the Crash and captivating a new generation of collectors. Among these modern iterations, examples adorned with the luxurious allure of pink diamonds, such as the present watch, stand as one of the most exclusive and sought-after. The rarity of these pink diamond-set Crash is unparalleled, making them the crown jewels of the contemporary Crash collection.
The presence of pink diamonds elevates the already-iconic Crash design to new heights of opulence and desirability. The juxtaposition of the warm, blush-hued gems against the fluid, asymmetrical lines of the pink gold case create a visual symphony that is at once avant-garde and eternally elegant. The dial features a softened pink hued set of Roman numerals that gracefully sits amongst the star studded pink bezel, furthermore the secret signature at seven and "MADE IN FRANCE" elevates this piece with sophistication.
This harmonious blend of the surreal and the luxurious serves as a testament to Cartier's unrivaled ability to push the boundaries of horological design while remaining true to its commitment to exceptional craftsmanship and materials. Preserved in barely worn condition and fitted with an eye-catching pink crocodile strap, the present Crash will surely delight on the wrist and remain an icon in one's collection of prized timepieces.
Lot 1040: A Circa 2003 Cartier Crash Ref. 2463 in 18k Pink Gold
Estimate: HKD $550,000 - 1,000,000
Cartier is known for countless emblematic pieces, from their famous Flamingo brooch, to their classic Panthère collection, and their legendary line of elegant “Tank” wristwatches, produced since 1917. Perhaps the most iconic and mysterious is the “Crash” - one of the most recognized and cherished horological gems on the market today.
From its original iteration in 1967 to the 21st century re-issues, the watch embodies the unconventional and swinging decade of the 1960s with an unmistakably unique look, and the genius craftsmanship of the Cartier atelier. Over the years, there has been much speculation about the design, from some believing incorrectly the unusual case was based on Salvador Dali's “Persistence of Memory” to the rumour it was a Maxi Baignoire Alongée, which melted during a car accident, and returned to Cartier for restoration. The reality is the design was the brainchild of Jean-Jacque Cartier and designer Rupert Emmerson. The original Crash model was released at Cartier London in 1967 and was made from a modified Maxi Baignoire Alongée. Since then, the brand has released other versions over the decades from a new London Crash from the 1980s, to a limited edition platinum Paris model in the 1990s, as well as a limited edition run of 400 from Paris in 1991.
Today, the Cartier Crash has become somewhat of a cultural icon, adorning the wrists of celebrities and artists alike. It represents everything that Cartier is best known for: merging design, form and function together which transforms a timepiece beyond a "watch" and into a piece of art. The present 21st century example in pink gold, with its amazing, dream-like curved form, is preserved in outstanding condition from the original owner with barely any signs of wear – a chance for the connoisseur to acquire Cartier's most radical watch design in such condition is an extremely rare opportunity not to be missed.
Lot 994: A Circa 2020 Cartier Tank Asymétrique Privé Ref. WHTA0012
Estimate: HKD $200,000 - 400,000
As the epitome of elegance, Cartier has consistently been at the forefront of design aesthetics in the world of timepieces since the early 20th century. The Tank collection, which made its debut in 1917, has undergone captivating transformations over the years. Variations such as the Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Chinoise, Tank Cintree, Tank Obus, and Tank Etanché, to name a few, have all contributed to its rich lineage. However, it is the Tank Asymétrique, with its distinctive parallelogram-shaped design introduced in 1936, that truly stands out from the pack.
Each timepiece in this collection is a fusion of history, artistry, and craftsmanship, ensuring that Cartier's legacy endures through generations of watch connoisseurs. Interestingly, the Tank Asymétrique has evolved over time, with the middle lug being removed and later reintroduced in the CPCP version in 2006. While retaining the same 30-degree offset as the numerals on its asymmetrical dial, the current series with a skeletonized dial was introduced in 2020 as part of the Privé Cartier Collection. The lacquer-filled Arabic numerals at 6 and 12 o'clock are framed by the dial's bridges, serving as hour markers and offering a glimpse of the in-house 9623 MC movement that beats within.
Limited to only 100 pieces in platinum, the current watch bears the number 006 and is accompanied by its full set of accessories. Preserved in excellent condition, this skeletonized Tank Asymétrique represents a truly exceptional release from Cartier that is poised to become highly sought after and collectible in the years to come.
Lot 825: A Circa 2022 Cartier Tank Asymétrique 'Milano' Ref. WGTA0071 In Platinum
Estimate: HKD $320,000 - 640,000
Debuting in 1936 as the Paralélogramme, the Cartier Asymétrique was born amid an era of bold case designs and innovation. A creative twist on the classic Tank, this angular model shifted the case and dial 30 degrees, lying flat on the wrist. Encapsulating Cartier's avant -garde spirit, the Asymétrique joins mythic silhouettes like the Cintrée and Crash as cornerstones of the brand's brilliant history.
Revived through the decades in limited editions, the Tank Asymétrique underscores its importance in the Cartier canon. The present example encased in platinum, numbered 9 of just 16 pieces made, celebrates the reopening of Cartier's Milan boutique with subtle burgundy accents and an eye-catching dial layout. The “16” motif honors the boutique's address at 16 Via Montenapoleone.
Complete with all its accessories and offered in excellent condition, this Asymétrique will delight even the most discerning Cartier collector. Its rarity and subtle, avant-garde elegance cement its place among the maison's most prized silhouettes.
Lot 993: A Circa Cartier Tank Chinoise Cartier Privé Ref. WHTA0015 in Platinum
Estimate: HKD $160,000 - 320,000
In 2022, Cartier celebrated the 100th anniversary of the original Tank Chinoise, a redesigned version of the Tank watch that drew inspiration from traditional Chinese architecture. Throughout its century-long existence, the Chinoise has remained an intriguing variation where the case design offers more depth compared to the original Tank Normale introduced in 1919. To commemorate this significant milestone, Cartier released a series of novelties in their Cartier Privé lineup. Among them, the present example stands out with its striking design.
Upon first glance, one is captivated by the skeletonized dial and vibrant color combination. Interestingly, instead of Roman numerals, which are often associated with Cartier's skeleton movements, the bridges and base plate of this watch have been openworked to form a Chinese architectural inspired pattern that complements the overall case construction. The use of cobalt blue and burgundy lacquer colors creates a yin and yang image of a circle within a square that signifies balance and harmony.
Limited to only 100 pieces, this particular iteration is encased in the noble metal platinum. It is kept in excellent condition and comes complete with its full set of accessories. Numbered 9, this Cartier Tank Chinoise represents the enduring history of the collection and holds a special place in the hearts of collectors.
Lot 897: A Circa Late 1980s Cartier Baignoire Allongée Maxi Oval, The Only One Known
Estimate: HKD $120,000 - 240,000
Not many watches are truly timeless, but when it comes to Cartier, their designs are as popular today as they were a century ago. Champions of elegant icons, the Parisian Maison took the world by storm with the introduction of the Baignoire in 1957, a model that was made to last beyond the peak of the “Swinging Sixties”. Shaping the history of traditional watchmaking with adventurous forms, the manufacturer steered away from their distinctive angular cases to a “bathtub” shaped wristwatch inspired by its unnamed predecessor from 1912.
If the shape of the original Baignoire is daring, the out-stretched form of the Baignoire Allongée is downright audacious. Well-received among watch collectors, the successful second chapter of the model was born in 1973, sporting a slender oval case that was previously only ever produced by Cartier's London and New York workshops. Elongated with an elegantly arched case primarily in yellow gold and sometimes white gold, the Baignoire Allongée is born to impress on the wrist.
The present Baignoire Allongée is not your average example, surpassing its peers , the connoisseur will notice the warm red hue on its “Maxi Oval” case and the touch of red on its stubby crown. Crafted in pink gold and fitted with a finishing touch of a ruby-set cabochon crown, this specimen is a creation in the 1980s. The matte off-white dial is wrapped gracefully with long Roman numerals in black that cleverly fans out to form an inner circle (with the absence of the usual Chemin de fer) and proudly flaunts its Paris inscription. The movement is a Cartier signed 78-1 caliber based on the ETA 2512 that populates the maison's timepieces during the era.
Notably, this is the only publicly known example to be in this configuration and have been kept in a private collection for more than three decades. According to our research, there is only one other example that can be on par with the present one, the only difference would be its burgundy colored Roman numerals. Interesting fact, they are just one case number away from each other.
Talking about the condition of this beauty, it is preserved in stunning condition, deep, crisp hallmarks are found throughout. A French Eagle hallmark on the caseband and further more a double French Eagle and a E ♪V hallmarks stamped on its caseback. Without a doubt, this is the perfect dress watch for the modern gentry as it wears not only comfortably on the wrist, but its rarity will sure be on collector's radar.
Lot 827: A Circa 2019 Cartier Tank Cintrée Ref. CRWGTA0027 in Platinum
Estimate: HKD $120,000 - 200,000
The Tank Cintrée (meaning “curved Tank” in French) was introduced in 1921 as a revolutionary design with its special curved and elongated case shape. Taking a modern twist to the classic Cartier Tank design, the watch is a celebrated marriage of classic aesthetics and wearability. It is simple yet visually stunning, and is constructed in a beautiful form which allows it to sit comfortably on the wearer's wrist.
Inside the exquisite curved case, the dial emanates a superb elegance with a subtle gray railway minute track at the center of the delicate gray dial. Setting against the black sword-shaped hands, it sits in perfect harmony inside the shimming platinum case. The beaded winding crown is further set with a ruby cabochon, a beloved historical feature often found on platinum cases for Cartier's anniversary models , adding a delightful touch of red to the minimalistic design. There are two additional configurations of the present reference, including pink gold case with black dial and yellow gold case with golden dial, but the present combination of platinum case and gray dial is arguably the most adored and attractive version of all.
The watch is powered by the oval-shaped manual caliber 8971MC, based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 846, which is unique for its small size and versatility. It has no issue fitting the thin case since it measures only 6.95mm and yet boasting a power reserve of 38 hours.
Numbered 062 in a limited run of only 100 pieces, this present example is offered with its full set of accessories and is preserved in excellent condition. The rare opportunity to add this superbly Elegant timepiece to a fine watch collection is not to be missed.
Lot 1042: A Circa 2005 Cartier Collection Privée Cartier Paris Tank Chinoise In 18k Rose Gold
Estimate: HKD $100,000 - 150,000
Making timeless design is truly a forte for Cartier, and this Tank Chinoise CPCP truly exemplifies this statement. A design born in 1922, an entire century ago dating back to the maison's early days, Louis Cartier traveled far and wide to search for inspiration from the exotics, the mysterious “Far East” to build the family empire. From architecture, artworks, chinoiseries and many more, the influence of East Asian art was a hit during the mid-18th century. Taking the linear language seen from his travels, a new breed of Cartier Tank was born, the Tank Chinoise.
The square is a foundational element amongst Chinese culture, symbolizing the shape of earth and balance. Combined with the iconic Tank with two bold brancards, the design of the Tank Chinoise remained nearly unchanged throughout 100 years.
The present Tank Chinoise CPCP celebrates this exceptional creation by staying true to its original with a modern touch. Recreated during the Collection Privée era begun from 1998, the present edition was exclusively produced for 3 years from 2005 to 2008 and was available in two metals: pink gold and platinum. Defined with the same silhouette like its original design from 1922, the modern iteration is sized up to fit today's taste. Furthermore, the dial features the “Cartier Paris” signature on top of an exquisite guilloché dial that radiates from its iconic CPCP rosette motif from the centre. Boasting all distinctive elements of the CPCP collection, the Tank Chinoise is a must have for Cartier collectors.
Lot 1055: A Circa 1970s Cartier Tank Ref. 15716, specially issued for the New York boutique
Estimate: HKD $55,000 - 85,000
Shrouded in mystery, this rare 14K gold-plated Tank belongs to the scarcely seen “Stepped Case” series from the 1970s - a phantom of the past treasured by scholars of vintage Cartier. With its bold proportions, the watch bears a captivating wrist presence. The stepped bezel dramatically frames the handsome black dial and painted gold Roman numerals, along with sword hands that reflect a 1970s reinterpretation of the Tank's iconic codes and geometry.
Distinguished by its serial number beginning "12", this example was destined for the coveted New York (ref. 15716) boutique as the rarest and most prestigious reference of the three boutique editions – with approximately 2,500 examples produced as opposed to approximately 10,000 examples each made for the Paris (ref. 1543) and London (ref. 471) boutiques. Displaying superior quality details like the 14K gold-plated brass case, screw-down caseback, and recessed elongated crown, the New York edition truly stands apart amongst the trio.
This rare vintage reference encapsulates the creative spirit of the 70s Cartier boutiques before standardization. For scholars and collectors of Cartier's most iconic silhouettes, the present timepiece represents a stylishly retro perspective on the legendary Tank design.
Lot 899: A Circa 2023 Cartier Santos Dumont 'Les Flaneurs' Ref. 4298 in Stainless Steel
Estimate: HKD $55,000 - 110,000
Celebrating style, nuance and a community of true collectors, the Cartier Santos Dumont “Les Flaneur” is a unique collaboration that took two years in making. The result, an exceptionally fresh edition on the first wristwatch created by Cartier for aviator and extravagant Alberto Santos -Dumont. The abundance of emerald green radiates its charm at first sight of the “Les Flaneur” Santos Dumont. Meticulously crafted the typical Roman numerals is adorned with Chinese numerals that express its unique culture of origin. Thanks to “Les Flaneurs”, a club with esteemed collectors such as Wei Koh, Auro Montanari, Shary Rahman, their vision combined with Cartier's prowess brought this special order project alive. Produced in stainless steel and limited to 50 pieces only, it is also paired with a rarely seen emerald green cabochon.
Turning around the watch reveals a lucky charm of a four leave clover in lacquered green with a touch of playfulness to the timeless design. Engraved with the club's name, a small detail engraved on the bottom will hit the soft spot for watch collectors. " Méchanique” is not something you see every day from the large sized Santos Dumont. Powered by a quartz movement in the regular production, this was a special request by the visionaries of the club to heighten the collectability of the present timepiece.
Preserved in excellent condition and complete with its accessories, the present Cartier Santos Dumont “Les Flaneurs” is paired with a stunning green crocodile strap that is perfect for the passionate individual who shares the same love for watch collecting.
Lot 936: A Circa 2000s Cartier Pasha Ref. 1031 in Stainless Steel
Estimate: HKD $25,000 - 45,000
The Pasha de Cartier originated from a special timepiece presented to the Pasha of Marrakesh, Thami El Glaoui in 1943. The original Pasha was a lavish yet elegant yellow gold wristwatch with a distinctive case design. Featuring a large case, crown protector and central lugs, the watch was a revolutionary design virtually unheard of at the time. The Pasha might look like a dress watch on the surface, but it is equipped with water resistance, designed to suit Thami El Glaoui's active lifestyle.
In the 1980s, watch industry legend Alain Dominique Perrin, then at the helm of Cartier, decided to revive the Pasha and successfully made the Pasha a statement piece emblematic of the 1980s. With its masculine appeal and iconic elegance intact, the new Pasha was a design collaboration with the magnificent Gerald Genta.
Cartier has continued to offer new iterations of the Pasha during its more than 30 years of production span, and the present example is one such beautiful interpretation of the Pasha. While retaining the signature Pasha silhouette with the Vendôme lugs, screw-down crown cap, and dainty retaining chain, the dial has stripped down to a minimalistic and gorgeous blue dial. Coupled with the skeletonized hands and applied hour markers on top, the dial exudes a subtle and sophisticated refinement.
Coming from the acclaimed watch collector Mark Cho's collection, the present timepiece is preserved in exceptional condition, and further accompanied by its original presentation box. This attractive Pasha embodies Cartier's rich heritage and its timeless allure, and it is one not to be missed by the discerning collector.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII catalog right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
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