The PHILLIPS Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII, takes place on May 24 and 25, 2024, at our West Kowloon headquarters. The auction includes more than 280 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it's one of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale right here, including the wide variety of pocket watches featured below.
There are more than 280 incredible timepieces to discover in the catalog for our upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII. There's so many wonderful watches to discover that it can be extremely difficult to select a single lot from the sale that's right for you.
Alas, the heart wants what the heart wants.
We believe it's foolish to turn away from the watches you love the most, so while preparing for the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII, we challenged a number of specialists and staffers in the Phillips Hong Kong office on what watch – one watch – would they choose to take home with them, if they could?
Their answers might surprise you.
Lot 933: A Circa 1929 Unique Cartier Water Clock
Gertrude Wong, Head of Sale, Specialist, Hong Kong
Estimate: In excess of HKD $2,000,000
“La version la plus raffiné” described by Hans Nadelhoffer and Maurice Coüet, the most refined and precious of all the water clocks Cartier ever created, the unique piece Chimera La Pendule Magnétique is truly mind boggling. Not only does it dates back to the golden era of exploration and creativity in the twenties lead by the Cartier brothers, Louis, Pierre and Jacques Cartier. It was also the pinnacle of craftmanship and innovation under the vision of the maison. Inspired by the clever mechanism of the “South Pointing Fish” water compass from Chinese culture and a concealed magnetic disc, the carp magically floats in the Chimera basin to indicate the time. Poetic and elegant at the same time, I invite you to admire each numeral that marks the hour, especially the genius touch of positioning the Chimera at 12.
The Arabic numerals are spectacularly designed mimicking the angular strokes of the Chinese language. Ancient legends has it that the Dragon had 9 sons, each Chimera has their own personality and strength. One roar the loudest and are often represented on bells in Chinese architecture, another is fond of adventures and takes form of a Phoenix usually seen on rooftops, and of course, there are Chimeras that favours water. Just imagine the extensive Far East research and development that went into its creation back in the days where traveling were mostly still bound by trains and ships.
Marble, yellow gold, coral, aventurine, mother-of-pearl and a 17th century old nephrite basin, this water clock is just heart-stoppingly beautiful with details. From the day it left the doors of Cartier New York— one could only imagine a client of impeccable taste and importance in 1929—, it was not until 1990 that the market had a brief glimpse of this water clock at auction. A lost treasure hidden away for three decades now, this is a must have for true Cartier collectors.
Lot 891: A Circa 1901 Charles Frodsham Split-Seconds Chronograph, Minute Repeating Pocket Watch in 18k Yellow Gold
Alvin Lau, Specialist, Hong Kong
Estimate: HKD $480,000 - 960,000
I never thought I would choose a pocket watch as my top pick for the auction until I saw this Charles Frodsham in person. Among English watchmakers, Frodsham truly stands out as the epitome of traditional English craftsmanship. The firm even had the honor of serving the King, the Prince of Wales, and Queen Alexandra back in 1854, with Charles Frodsham himself acting as the Superintendent and Keeper of Her Majesty's Clocks at Buckingham Palace.
The legacy of this craft was carried on by his son, Harrison Mill Frodsham, who took over the firm from 1893 onwards and created the present masterpiece. Commissioned by renowned collectors who greatly admired Frodsham's impeccable craftsmanship, this watch was produced in a very limited batch, with only 12 pieces having resurfaced on the market. Featuring a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph, and a one-minute tourbillon that can be admired through the movement, this watch was among the most intricate and expensive English timepieces available, originally retailed between £200 and £350.
In magnificent condition, this watch has been incredibly well-preserved in an important private collection for over three decades. Now, we finally have the opportunity to see it reemerge in the market.
Lot 963: A Circa 1992 Breguet Ref. 3420BA Heures Sautantes in 18k Yellow Gold
Jonathan Siu, Specialist, Perpetual, Hong Kong
Estimate: HKD $110,000 - 180,000
I have always been fascinated by the concept of Jumping Hour: Foregoing the conventional horological hands and replacing them with rotating discs for an intuitive reading of the Time. And here with this Breguet Ref. 3420 BA we can experience both digital and analogue display in one watch. Showcasing the purest form of time in the 36mm yellow gold case, the case itself is adorned with the brand’s signature coin edge pattern. The dial is clean yet sophisticated, the hour is being shown in digital form at 12 o'clock, and the minute being displayed with the classic Breguet hand. Everything about this watch looks right to me, I like the simple dial layout with such classical proportion, not to mention it is a limited edition of 800 pieces. What more could you ask for!
Lot 1068: A Circa 2001 Paul Gerber Retro Twin in 18k White Gold
Yunyi Xu, Cataloguer, Hong Kong
Estimate: HKD $48,000 - 95,000
The present lot is a timepiece that I spent a lot of time with while writing the catalogue. It was a pleasant surprise to discover an independent watchmaker in Zurich who was featured in the Guinness Book of World Records for having created the most complicated wristwatch in the world. The 35mm white gold stepped case wears elegantly on the wrist, while the intricate guilloche dial captivates with applied blued Breguet numerals and a flyback retrograde seconds that I have never seen before, later learning that it was a world’s first. The movement seen on the display caseback is equally admirable with twin platinum rotors. This Paul Gerber Retro Twin is without a doubt my favorite discovery from this auction.
Lot 895: A 1970 Patek Philippe Chronograph 'Tasti Tondi' Ref. 1463 in 18k Rose Gold
Lydia Ip, Cataloguer, Hong Kong
Estimate: HKD $2,000,000 - 4,000,000
As I drool over the beautiful examples of 5070 this season, I could not contain my excitement to see its predecessor introduced over half a century before, the legendary 1463 in pink gold (lot 895) from our Hong Kong auction. The “Tasti Tondi” is Patek Philippe’s first water-proof chronograph, and in my humble opinion, one of the most irresistible and timeless vintage timepieces ever made. It is not an exaggeration to say that it is a transcendental experience to see this stunning pink gold specimen in real life. With only an estimated 720 pieces made across three metals, predominantly in yellow gold, very few in stainless steel, and the rarest in pink gold, the present example also comes with a dazzling pink gold Gay Frères bracelet, and is accompanied by its original Certificate of Origin, an Extract from the Archives and presentation box. What an immense joy to encounter this giant in the history of the Patek Philippe chronograph!
Lot 927: A 1974 Audemars Piguet 'Cobra' Ref. 5403BC in 18k White Gold
Kristy Kwan, Intern, Hong Kong
Estimate: HKD $160,000 - 240,000
One of the most prominent designs of Gerald Genta is Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak which became the birth of the steel sports watch. A lesser-known fact is the creation of the “Cobra” reference 5403BC, another timepiece that Genta designed for the brand, and one of my favourites from this season’s auction. This model features a charming combination of the 18K white gold and blue dial with diamond indexes whose simplicity and elegance is unchanging, and the texture and braided pattern of the integrated bracelet which parallels the scales of a snake, incorporates harmoniously to the design. Reference 5403BC shares the same movement as the original Royal Oak “Jumbo” of the 1970s, Calibre 2121, which at the time was the world's thinnest mechanical movement with date, but is still considered one of the most refined and remarkable movements produced today. For me, I was captivated by the complexity of this watch - its excellence and craftsmanship. This rare timepiece blends sophistication and extravagance making it the ideal dress watch for those looking for a unique and vintage appeal to add to their collection.
Lot 1074: A Circa 2001 Girard-Perregaux Opera Two Ref. 99741 in Platinum
Arthur Touchot, International Head of Digital Strategy Watches
Estimate: HKD $1,000,000 - 2,000,000
While the Girard-Perregaux Opera Two in platinum might not be my personal favourite, it's certainly one of the most intriguing pieces of our auction. It's a great find for collectors who appreciate detailed craftsmanship, rare timekeepers, or want to add a bit of neo-vintage appeal to their collection. What makes the Opera Two so special is the amount of detail that went into making the watch —each model takes approximately 500 hours to hand-assemble and decorate. Unlike most watches that strike the hours with just two hammers, the Opera Two uses four, each tuned to a different note (G, C, D, and E), creating a beautiful carillon modelled after London’s Great Bell of the Great Clock of Westminster (known as Big Ben). You can see this mechanism through a special window on the watch's face, adding a delightful element to watch when the hammers are active. For anyone interested in high-end watches with unique features - this is one to consider!
Lot 893: A Circa 1940 Time-Only Longines Ref. 3777 'Tre-Tacche' in Stainless Steel
Logan Baker, Senior Editorial Manager
Estimate: HKD $25,000 - 50,000
I love all sorts of watches. The split-seconds chronograph has always been my favorite complication, and I hold the creations of independent masters very close to my heart. I love innovative technical watchmaking just as much as I do a simple time-only vintage dress watch. But my favorite lot in the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII combines a few of what I believe are the most underrated aesthetic attributes you can find in a wristwatch, while also coming from perhaps my favorite era at one of my favorite watchmakers.
Lot 893, an early 1940s time-only Longines ref. 3777 "Tre-Tacche" in stainless steel is that watch. Big bold Arabic numerals are used for the even hour markers, and the dial is absolutely beautiful two-tone sector sort, of the two-tone sector sort, with a dark grey center section offset by an off-white creamy outer minute ring and small seconds. It’s on the small side, measuring only 30mm in diameter, but the stepped bezel will ensure it sits upright and proper on the wrist. Inside is the mighty manual-wind caliber 10.68N, also found in other legendary Longines pieces of the era, such as the Hour Angle.
Originally delivered to Longines’ agent in Sweden at the time, the watch is achingly beautiful, the type of piece that could anchor a collection of mid-century time-only steel wristwatches.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII catalog right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
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Our Favorite Pocket Watches Featured In The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII
Discover Cartier's Extraordinary Clockmaking History This Auction Season At Phillips