Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, online auction, running from 12:00 PM CET, Thursday, September 5, to 2:00 PM CET, Thursday, September 12. Featuring more than 70 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, including the rare titanium Seiko Izul featured below.
– By Logan Baker
In the world of watch collecting, there are those timepieces that capture the hearts and minds of enthusiasts worldwide – models like the Omega Speedmaster or the Rolex Submariner.
Then, there are those hidden gems that, while lesser-known, carry an undeniable charm and intrigue all their own. One such piece is the Seiko Izul, a watch line that few outside Japan have even heard of, yet it offers an intriguing mix of avant-garde design, technical innovation, and rare collectibility.
Manufactured exclusively for the Japanese domestic market from 2007 to 2009, the Izul remains a fascinating chapter in Seiko's storied history, combining the heritage of Olympic chronographs with a futuristic aesthetic and groundbreaking mechanics.
From the very first glance, the Seiko Izul makes a striking impression. Its 47mm titanium case, a significant size even by today's standards, is bold and unapologetic. This choice is one of the first indicators that Seiko's approach with the Izul line was unconventional. Designed to stand out, the Izul's aesthetic was inspired by Olympic chronographs, yet it pushes the boundaries with a case construction that is as much about form as it is about function.
One of the most notable features is the unique crown and pushers positioning at 12 o'clock that recalls vintage stopwatches. Adding to the uniqueness, the Izul was available in two case constructions: a standard one, and a more innovative version that allowed the dial to be rotated upside-down.
This kind of versatility speaks to Seiko's desire to create a watch that could be adapted to different contexts and worn in multiple ways, enhancing its utility for various activities. The case design itself is vertically asymmetric, with shorter and higher top lugs, which causes the dial to incline slightly towards the wearer – an ergonomically sound decision reminiscent of a driver's watch. This detail is not just a quirk; it’s a deliberate design choice that makes the Izul highly practical and comfortable on the wrist, especially for those who appreciate functionality alongside flair.
When Seiko launched the Izul, it positioned the line alongside some of its most prestigious sub-brands – Credor, Grand Seiko, and Galante. Seiko was signaling to the watch community that the Izul was meant to represent the pinnacle of its watchmaking prowess, encompassing both technical excellence and high-end design. However, this positioning soon proved to be both a blessing and a curse.
While Grand Seiko and Credor have long been revered for their craftsmanship and elegant aesthetics, the Izul’s bold, modern design didn’t quite resonate with its intended audience.
For the Japanese market, which tends to favor more understated styles, the Izul's large size and unorthodox design choices were perhaps a step too far. As a result, the Izul line faced a lukewarm reception and was quietly discontinued after just a few years. However, this very fact has turned the Izul into one of the rarest finds in Seiko’s catalog – a hidden gem that even many seasoned collectors might not have encountered.
What truly elevates the Seiko Izul beyond its avant-garde aesthetics is its mechanical heart – the Spring Drive caliber 5R85. The Spring Drive is one of Seiko’s most significant technological achievements, representing decades of development and innovation. While the concept for the Spring Drive was born in the early 1980s, with the first patents requested in 1982, it wasn’t until 1999 that the technology was finally commercialized.
The Spring Drive is known for its revolutionary architecture that replaces the traditional oscillating balance wheel with a continuously revolving gear. In a Spring Drive movement, energy is stored in a mainspring, just like a mechanical watch. However, instead of using an escapement to release that energy, the Spring Drive uses a glide wheel that rotates continuously.
This glide wheel is regulated by a quartz crystal and an integrated circuit, which work in conjunction to maintain an incredibly precise timekeeping rate. As a result, the seconds hand of a Spring Drive watch moves in an absolutely smooth, gliding motion, unlike the ticking or sweeping motions of traditional mechanical or quartz watches. The smooth sweep of the seconds hand is both mesmerizing and a hallmark of Spring Drive technology, offering a visual and technical distinction that sets these watches apart from anything else on the market.
The Seiko Izul is as a fascinating piece of Seiko's modern history. In an era where luxury watchmaking often revolves around heritage and convention, the Izul is a testament to Seiko’s willingness to break the mold and experiment with new ideas. This spirit of innovation is something that has always set Seiko apart in the watch world. From the development of the world's first quartz wristwatch in 1969 to the unveiling of the Spring Drive technology, Seiko has consistently pushed the boundaries of what is possible in horology. The Izul is yet another example of this pioneering spirit.
Today, the Seiko Izul is considered a rare find, often flying under the radar of even the most dedicated Seiko collectors. One example even sold for a remarkable sum of CHF 60,480 at Phillips Geneva, in November 2022.
The Seiko Izul may not have found widespread acclaim in its time, but its story is far from over. As the watch collecting community becomes more aware of the uniqueness of the Izul, its reputation as a cult classic is beginning to take shape. In an industry that often looks to the past for inspiration, the Izul's story serves as a reminder that some of the most exciting horological treasures are those that dared to defy convention.
Another Seiko Izul example recently arrived in the Phillips office and is included in our Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction (lot 31). It dates to 2008, is preserved in excellent condition, and comes complete with its full set of accessories. You can take a closer look at the watch – and place a bid – right here.
You can view the complete Phillips Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction catalog here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
Recommended Reading
Specialists' Picks: The Geneva Sessions, Online Auction, Fall 2024