Cora Sheibani, Mexican Cactus Bracelet in 18k Yellow, Rose & White Gold. Price $22,370 USD. Flawless X Vivarium: Woman to Woman.
Interviews Conducted by Vivienne Becker
It is above all a love story, between the woman and her jewel. – Nadia Morgenthaler, Geneva
NADIA MORGENTHALER
What are your favourite materials, gemstones and techniques?
I love Spinel, Zircon, Sphène, Sapphires in unconventional colors and diamonds, because of the variety of colors, the intense shine and life of these stones. I love natural pearls because of the softness, the sensual touch, and their incomparable beauty.
And I love all techniques, depending on the goal of the piece. My jewels are mainly composed of several layers of metal, very often of a metal sandwich: a layer of silver on a layer of gold or two layers of silver framing a layer of gold or platinum. I like to play on the difference of color, and it is also an important technical aspect, because it preserves Silver’s ability to blacken naturally while the gold maintains the strength of the jewel. This also helps to emphasize the stones; my jewels are always very drawn/designed and the blackened finish reinforces and underlines this aspect.
SILVIA FURMANOVICH
Describe your style in no more than 5 words.
Eclectic, free-spirited, innovative.
Who, of your inspirational muses—past, present or future—would you most like to see wearing your jewelry ?
Egyptian Queen Nefertiti, the royal consort of Pharaoh Akhenaten. She is an inspirational figure, because of her mystery, allure, and beauty.
Cora Sheibani, Mixed Berry Tartlet Ring with Blue Sapphires and Red Spinels in 18k Rose Gold. Price $10,950 USD. Flawless X Vivarium: Woman to Woman.
CORA SHEIBANI
How do you view women's voices in the jewelry world?
I only make jewelry that I would like to wear myself. So, I am not interested in making showpieces that are hard, uncomfortable, or unflattering to wear. Some jewels look great as objects and make everyone go "wow" but are absolutely not meant for wearing. My mother said only very old ladies wear excessive gemstones/jewelry as it distracts from their wrinkles, I have not made any necklaces like that (yet?).
MICHELLE ONG FOR CARNET
Who, of your inspirational muses—past, present or future—would you most like to see wearing your jewelry ?
If I had to choose someone from my past, I would love to see my mother adorn my creations once again. She taught me to be passionate about the things I do, and her advice has been my guiding light throughout my career. As for the present and the future, I am blessed to have two daughters who personify the modern independent woman’s strength of character.
What is the relationship between a woman and her jewels?
Jewelry is an extension of a woman’s personality. And so, I believe that it should be fluid, almost like a second skin, easy on the eyes and comforting on the touch. It is what adds to the aura of a woman without her having to explain a word.
Hannah Martin, Ring of Fire Ring with Diamonds and 18k White Gold. Price $16,800 USD. Flawless X Vivarium: Woman to Woman.
HANNAH MARTIN
Who, of your inspirational muses—past, present or future—would you most like to see wearing your jewelry ?
Many of my muses are figments of my imagination. With each collection I create a character who becomes as real to me as the people I see every day. I build a whole world around them and tell their story through the jewels I end up creating.
Of the characters I have made so far, I would most like to see my latest wearing the jewels. The latest wasn’t just one person – it was an army! A rebel army, of boys and girls and everything in between, defiantly marching into their future with reckless abandon. My imaginary warriors are gloriously feral. They have signed a pact against normality. These are who I would love to see in my jewels, probably because they are my newest creations, and I’m in love with them all.
In terms of real life humans past and present…Patti Smith, Simone de Beauvoir, Josephine Baker, Tilda Swinton and Lee Miller top 5 women I want to see in my jewels!
What have I not asked you that you would like to say…
I have been thinking a lot recently, about what drives me to do what I do. Possibly because we have been through probably my most challenging year to date – and sometimes I wonder what it is that keeps me going!
I am driven by an unquenchable thirst for new ideas. I’ve always been super curious, and I hate the idea of settling for something. I’m driven by the adventure of finding or changing, holding things in constant movement, wanting to keep going and taking things further.
I have always loved the challenge of being part of this world of jewelry.
I think I’ve already established I have a rebellious nature – and like to push boundaries. Challenging the world of solitaire diamond rings was my dream.
I felt I had something new to say and I wanted to say it as loudly as I could. I have always been really interested in challenging gender norms within the jewelry industry – which was perhaps a much bigger deal at the time I started than it is now. I could never understand why beautiful, sensual fine jewelry did not really exist for me. I wanted my jewels to be worn by men and women alike.
Sexuality and sensuality have also been a big part of my work from the beginning. And I’ve never wanted to hide this. As a woman, and within the luxury world, this in itself is a challenge.
I set the brand up to challenge convention on all levels, and this is a thread that runs through every collection (I hope). Gender politics has always been a big part of what I do, and I always try to challenge the ‘norm’. I am very politically motivated in life in general, and this feeds through into all my work.
MARGARET
What is the relationship between a woman and her jewels?
Very intimate; tells a story; follows you; part of your body; very tactile relationship; when you escape or dream; priceless sentimental piece that you take with you...and transmit to your children, or just someone you love; a Jewel can be hidden or shown…
We believe in the meaning, sentiment, and the story behind each jewel, and we love that our jewels tend to be worn all day, every day...mixed and stacked, to build an individual, deeply personal style. Jewels with meaning to keep close at all times. We love to bring the past into the present, to continue the long, wonderfully rich, and never-ending story of jewelry.
Ming, Stained Glass Earrings with Pink Sapphires and Rubies, set in Platinum. Price $30,000 USD. Flawless X Vivarium: Woman to Woman.
MING
Describe your style in no more than 5 words.
If I were to describe my style in a sentence I would say: Classic with a Far Eastern twist and a bit of rebellion.
What are your favorite materials, gemstones, and techniques? And why?
Gold for its versatility and feeling of treasur. Sapphires for their range of colors and their sparkle, laser welding for the magic we are able to make with technology.
SOLANGE AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE
Describe your style in no more than 5 words.
Feminine, exuberant, soulful, happy, easy.
What are your favorite materials, gemstones and techniques? And why?
I like to use gold as a base for everything I do. But I may blacken it as I love the look of jewelry when it looks a little aged and well loved. Emeralds have been a long-time obsession. Rose-cut and triangle diamonds as well as diamonds that don’t necessarily look like diamonds are also favorites. Opals are mesmerising and magical, containing all the colors you could wish to see. I love enamel and lacquer as they add a whole other palette of color to play with.
Solange Azagury-Partridge, Diamond Triangle Necklace With Custom-Cut Diamonds set in 18k White Gold. Price Upon Request. Flawless X Vivarium: Woman to Woman.
LAUREN ADRIANA
Who, of your inspirational muses—past, present or future—would you most like to see wearing your jewellery ?
The term “muse” is such a loaded word today, because it infers passivity and can render creative relationships a one-way street. I do believe that women must be careful not to objectify other women. Ultimately it is a joy to see my work on any woman who chooses to wear it.
What is the relationship between a woman and her jewels?
Women are attracted to jewellery for many different reasons—some because it instils confidence and confers status, and others for sentimental value and the memories it invokes. Far more interesting is the relationship between a woman and her jeweller—the trust that is built over time, the implicit understanding of her taste and personal style, and the key moments of her life that you share through the creation of special pieces. It is a unique creative relationship—and are women jewelers better at understanding this than men? It is irrelevant—what matters is the connection designers have with their clients and the jewels those relationships bring forth.
FENG J
Who, of your inspirational muses—past, present or future—would you most like to see wearing your jewellery ?
That would be the American artist Georgia O’Keefe, she was so talented and dared to be with her own soul. I took inspiration from her paintings and I believe she could wear my creations in a truly unique gesture.
What have I not asked you that you would like to say…
I was the first jeweler from mainland China to come to the Place Vendôme in Paris to establish a start-up brand. From that moment, I knew it would be an incredibly long journey but I believed that a young girl, especially an Asian girl could also achieve something different in western high jewelry. It's so challenging yet very exciting. In 2019, The New York Times quoted me, and two of my art jewels were sold in Phillips auction for $ 4.3 Million in total in 2020, and this year turns to be my 5 year milestone. I am so happy that as a young designer, I could show the world how a woman jewelry creator could perform with talent, passion and courage.
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