Manufacturer: Rolex Year: Circa 1960 Reference No: 5508 inside caseback stamp III.1958 Case No: 400'096 Model Name: Submariner Material: Stainless Steel Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1530, 25 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel riveted Rolex "Big Logo" bracelet, reference 6636, end links stamped 80, max length 200mm Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex "Big Logo" deployant clasp stamped 4.59 Dimensions: 37.5mm Diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Catalogue Essay
The history of the "no crown guard" Submariner is marked by several milestones. Launched in 1953, the very first serially produced Submariner wristwatch carried the designated reference 6204. Displaying pencil hands and luminous numerals, it was an incredibly important aid for dives. Rolex eventually developed other "small crown" models, such as references 6205, 6536/6538, 6536 and 6536/1, while references 6200, 6538 and 5510 were fitted with a "large" crown. Reference 5508 was the last Submariner to carry the "100m=330ft" depth rating.
In production from 1957 until the early 1960s, reference 5508 is known as the "James Bond" Submariner in the collecting community. This particular example is very well-preserved over time. The case is in excellent condition with sharp bevels and crisp edges. Furthermore, the inside case back is stamped III.1958, which is correct. This timepiece comes with a "Big Logo" Rolex bracelet, which is particularly beloved by collectors today.
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.