Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet Year: circa 1979 Reference No: 5402 BC Movement No: 173'138 Case No: B23005 / 88 Model Name: Royal Oak "Jumbo" Material: 18k white gold Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121/1, 36 jewels Bracelet/Strap: 18k white gold Audemars Piguet link bracelet, max length 175mm. Clasp/Buckle: Deployant clasp Dimensions: 39mm. Diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed Accessories: Accompanied by a presentation box and a Certificat of Origin and Authenticity.
Catalogue Essay
Introduced in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is, without a doubt, one of the most iconic wristwatch designs of the 20th century. Designed during the depths of the quartz crisis, the most expensive steel watch ever offered to the public was believed to bankrupt the company. Over the past four decades, the Royal Oak has fueled the brand’s success and become the key product line of Audemars Piguet. The present Royal Oak in 18-karat white gold is amongst the rarest variants of the original reference 5402 – the affectionately named “Jumbo”. Produced in very small quantities, this reference 5402BC is the 88th example of only 149 believed to have been manufactured by the firm in white gold. Crafted out of solid 18-karat gold, its luxurious heft is dramatic, especially when compared to the regular production stainless steel versions. Measuring 39mm in diameter, its iconic octagonal bezel is secured with mirror-polished white gold hexagonal screws that provide attractive, eye-catching contrast to the brushed polished bezel. The surface of the black dial features a guilloche mini-“tapisserie” pattern – a texture found on all early Royal Oak dials. Resembling small pavestones, it has retained its original color with no signs of flaking. It’s adorned with tasteful, diamond hour markers perfectly complementing the screws of the bezel. Presented in superb overall condition, the present lot is a rare opportunity for collectors of luxury sports watches.
A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.
Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.