Audemars Piguet - The Royal Oak 50th Geneva Friday, May 6, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1988
    Reference No: 25659BA
    Movement No: 274'089
    Case No: C31040.03
    Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
    Material: 18K yellow gold and diamonds
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2120/2802, 38 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold and diamonds Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo co-signed Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Attestation.

  • Catalogue Essay

    A fully gem set openwork perpetual calendar, reference 25659 was made in only 4 pieces over a 7 year period, from 1988 to 1995, 3 pieces in yellow gold and 1 piece in platinum.

    The present Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is an early version, with no leap year indicator and preserved in excellent overall condition. Cased in yellow gold with an exquisite diamond set finish this timepiece surely commands attention and prestige. Beyond its unquestionable rarity, the movement itself is a remarkable feat of engineering. Turn the watch over and you will witness genuine watchmaking artistry: a gracefully engraved and openworked main plate with floral and leaf scroll designs, as well as the Audemars Piguet emblem artfully rendered into the decor via the sapphire caseback. The outside section of the openworked dial is framed by the same pattern, which is visible through the case's cage. Immensely charismatic, its case proportions and diamond set finishing bedazzle the fortunate beholder. This timepiece on an intellectual level pushes the notion of a luxury sport's watch to its limits: the openwork can be considered a great show of complexity and the diamond-setting might be regarded the pinnacle of luxury. While such a contradiction is intellectually interesting, the execution is far from easy, however Audemars Piguet managed to integrate these two seemingly incompatible souls with style and panache. Remarkably, recent research has shown that only 3 examples in this particular configuration of yellow gold with diamonds were ever made.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 25659BA
An impressive yellow gold and diamond perpetual calendar wristwatch with openworked dial, part of a 3-pieces limited series

1988
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF250,000 - 500,000 
€246,000-491,000
$265,000-531,000

Sold for CHF630,000

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi

Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 22 317 81 81
AGhotbi@phillips.com

 

Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Head of Sale, Specialist
+41 76 338 91 03
vliatard@phillips.com

The Royal Oak 50th

Geneva Auction 6 May 2022