Audemars Piguet - The Royal Oak 50th Geneva Friday, May 6, 2022 | Phillips

The Royal Oak 50th

Geneva Auction 6 May 2022

  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 2000
    Reference No: 56603BC
    Movement No: 434'033
    Case No: D58304.204
    Model Name: Royal Oak
    Material: 18K white gold
    Calibre: Quartz, cal 2612, 8 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K white gold and diamond-set Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp further signed Gay Frères
    Dimensions: 33.5mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificat d'Origine et de Garantie stamped by London retailer "Marcus, a Division of Time Products (UK) Ltd" and dated June 27, 2000, Certificat d'Origine des Pierres Precieuses, and massive multi-colored wooden presentation box. Further accompanied by Audemars Piguet and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo co-signed Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Attestation.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Gem-set watches have always been a “specialty” of sorts, for watch brands. Without a doubt, these are objects incredibly costly to produce, both from a material supply point of view, as well as under a labour one. Furthermore, until a few decades ago, bejewelled timepieces were marketed mostly toward women, an indicative of the cultural logics of a society still deeply rooted in ideas that are nowadays considered limitative.
    Precursor collectors who appreciated this kind of timepieces have always existed (an example above all are the gem-set Daytona pieces commissioned by the Sultan of Oman in the 1980s). It is however with the cultural changes of recent times that gem-set wristwatches have been not only rightfully considered for what they truly are - extraordinary examples of the merging of watchmaking and gem-setting craftmanship - but have also been propelled to the top echelon of watch collecting in virtue of their impressive looks and outstanding rarity.

    That said, some case designs are more prone to gem-setting than others, and it is difficult to argue that the Royal Oak architecture, of both case and bracelet, is among those most apt to this exclusive upgrade. The octagonal bezel seems designed since the beginning to hold rows of baguette diamonds, and the same goes for the bracelet, with the vertical juncture pieces acting as an ideal “platform” for the stones.

    The final result - as can be admired in this wristwatch - is beyond impressive: a truly majestic timepiece accompanied by all of its accessories which can be enjoyed by lady- as well as gentleman-collectors alike. The impressive box already conveys the importance of the piece, but it is when reading the “Certificat d’Origine des Pierres Precieuses” (Certificate of origin of precious stones) that one can see the details of the setting: on the watch there is a mind-boggling total of 604 stones. Beyond the 10 emeralds for the hours markers, there are 508 princess-cut diamonds (for 4.61ct) and 86 baguette-cut diamonds (6.27ct).

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Audemars Piguet

Ref. 56603BC
A superb and impressive white gold and diamond-set wristwatch with date, emerald-set hour markers, bracelet, certificates and box

2000
33.5mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF60,000 - 120,000 
€58,900-118,000
$63,700-127,000

Sold for CHF75,600

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi

Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 22 317 81 81
AGhotbi@phillips.com

 

Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Head of Sale, Specialist
+41 76 338 91 03
vliatard@phillips.com

The Royal Oak 50th

Geneva Auction 6 May 2022