Audemars Piguet - Phillips Watches Online Auction: The Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024 Hong Kong Friday, September 20, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: Circa 1972
    Reference No: 5402
    Case No: A 122
    Model Name: Royal Oak “A Series”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 170mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp stamped “X 12”
    Dimensions: 39mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    - As the first model in the Royal Oak collection, the reference 5402 recently celebrated its 50th anniversary and embodies the essence of the entire collection with its rich heritage.

    - Among the 1,937 A-serial 5402s produced, the present watch belongs to one of the earliest batches released by Audemars Piguet in 1972, as it is numbered 122 written on the caseback.

    - While most Royal Oak dials feature the "AP" logo at 6 o'clock, this particular dial showcases the logo at the 12 o'clock position, replacing the index. This variation may be attributed to the fact that Audemars Piguet replaced the dial during an early service.

    - Audemars Piguet restorers explain that over time, certain watch hands can rub against or even collide with the applied logo at 6 o’clock, causing the watch to stop. It is crucial to note that the distance between the hands and the logo is only a few hundredths of a millimeter.

    - To address this issue, Audemars Piguet watchmakers initially bent the hands manually, performing a delicate operation that involved creating two tiny, inverted Z-shaped bends to raise the hands just enough to pass without touching the logo or the crystal, and without touching each other. However, in order to provide a permanent solution, Audemars Piguet decided on February 24, 1977 to relocate the logo to the 12 o'clock position, allowing sufficient space for the movement of the hour hand.

    - Considering dial variations throughout the entire reference, it is estimated that only a maximum of 16% have the AP monogram at the 12 o'clock position, making this A-serial variant a highly rare example compared to other known watches in the market.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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8021

Ref. 5402
An early, very rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with “tropical dial”, date and bracelet

Circa 1972
39mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$160,000 - 320,000 
€18,400-36,800
$20,500-41,000

Sold for HK$330,200

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2030
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

Phillips Watches Online Auction: The Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024

20 - 27 September 2024