While many wristwatches become legendary years after their introduction into the market place, Audemars Piguet timepieces from the mid-twentieth century often rose to iconic status almost immediately due to their exquisite quality, superb aesthetics, technical ingenuity, and extremely limited production numbers. The present reference 5516 perpetual calendar wristwatch is such an iconic watch. Made in 1957, it is one of just nine examples manufactured by Audemars Piguet for what was the first serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch model to display a leap year indication. For over two decades, no other brand would offer a perpetual calendar with leap year indicator until 1981, when Patek Philippe introduced the reference 3450. The first three examples of the reference 5516 featured the leap year indication at 6 o’clock with the months fully spelled out, while the later six watches displayed the leap year subsidiary dial at 12 o’clock. The months are removed, and in their place a modern minimalistic dial reading; ‘first year’, ‘second year’, ‘third year’ and ‘leap year’. The present watch is an outstanding example of what is amongst the finest watches ever produced by Audemars Piguet during the 1950s. So important is the reference, four of the six examples with leap year indicator at 12 o’clock are part of Audemars Piguet’s Heritage Collection.
Until the appearance of the present timepiece, it was believed there were two other examples remaining in private hands – watches with serial numbers 73’014 and 73’015. The case and movement number of the present watch, 73’014, fits in the same sequence as the four known examples with serial numbers 73’011 to 73’013, and 73,016 – three of which are part of Audemars Piguet’s collection. Amazingly, it is fitted with a pristine dial with serial number 73’015, and is also accompanied with its original, unrestored dial with serial number 73’014. Therefore the only other unknown example, with case and movement serial number 73’015, may never have been produced, or in fact might exist, but without its original dial. It is therefore the last opportunity to acquire such an important, complete, and correct watch, providing perfect aesthetics with the currently fitted 73’015 dial, while also satisfying purists with the accompanying original 73’014 dial. The oversized, 36.5mm case diameter and downturned lugs is perfectly balanced, while hinting at the trend towards larger cases that would be seen in the decades to follow. Its immaculate 73’015 dial with English calendar is beautifully preserved, with all of its raised, hard enamel print fully intact and original. The beauty of this dial is enhanced by lovely two-tone regions, with a silvered outer date chapter ring and subsidiary dials that compliment the deeper tone found at the dial’s center. Audemars Piguet’s reference 5516 is a true gem not only for its modern day appeal and wearability, but also for its importance in the history of horology. It is therefore a unique opportunity to obtain such a wonderfully preserved example of Audemars Piguet’s truly iconic, landmark perpetual calendar wristwatch.