When launched in 1972, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak was the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet. Designed overnight in response to an urgent request for an ‘unprecedented steel watch’, it was at the same time the most expensive stainless-steel timepiece ever produced. The brand sought famed designer Gerald Genta, who developed a brilliantly engineered, monobloc case, with a distinctively maritime feel, featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal, white gold screws, and a dial with tapisserie motif. Today as it celebrates its 50th anniversary, the Royal Oak is a legend, accounting for over 70% of the brand’s sales. The model evolved from the classic time only and date reference 5402ST to a global phenomenon produced in all metals, and a multitude of complications from minute repeating models, to the first perpetual calendar reference in 1982.
In 1996, Audemars Piguet released the reference 25820, which remained in production until 2013, and was produced in 1235 examples: 628 pieces in steel, 107 pieces in yellow gold, 74 pieces in platinum, 11 in pink gold, 378 in steel and platinum like the present watch, 15 in tantalum and yellow gold, 9 in tantalum and platinum, and 13 in tantalum and pink gold.
The present example, in stainless steel with polished platinum bezel and center bracelet links, is an attractive perpetual calendar with 39mm diameter case and combines the classic design of the Royal Oak with the highly desirable caliber 2120/2802 – amongst the slimmest perpetual calendar movements ever made. The watch is well-preserved and complete with its original boxes, papers, and guarantee. Fitted with a black tapisserie dial with silver sub-dials, it is the identical model and configuration as often found on the wrist of Giulio Papi, co-founder of complications specialist, Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi (APRP).
Today, the Royal Oak is one of the most iconic timepieces produced, and the now discontinued reference 25820SP is a classic rendition of this modern masterpiece with a timeless aesthetic. One of only 378 timepieces made in steel and platinum, the present lot offers a rare opportunity for savvy collectors to own a timepiece with a remarkable history that reaches back 50 years.
