Breguet - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI Hong Kong Wednesday, May 24, 2023 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Breguet
    Year: Circa 1991
    Reference No: Wristwatch: Ref. 3430; Pocket Watch: Ref. 1890
    Case No: No. 34
    Model Name: Souscription Set, No. 34/300
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Wristwatch: Manual, cal. 567, 24 jewels; Pocket Watch: Automatic, cal. 1890, 27 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Crocodile
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Breguet pin buckle
    Dimensions: Wristwatch: 37mm diameter; Pocket Watch: 62mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Breguet certificate dated 10th December 1991, setting pin and fitted presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    To many collectors today, the idea of Souscription is no longer foreign thanks to the widely praised tourbillon series by independent master watchmaker F. P. Journe in 1999. A brilliant idea it was, this unique approach was actually borrowed from Breguet’s founding father, Abraham Louis Breguet in 1794. Not only does it allow the brand to remain financially stable, on the up-side a percentage of down payment would be collected up front from collectors in exchange for what would become the very first ones to own the limited production timepieces. This is exactly the case for the present Breguet Souscription set launched in 1991. Set out to be produced in a limited series of 300 pieces only as a celebration of more than 200 years of the brand, the pair consist of a 37mm perpetual calendar wristwatch with minute repeater, and a 62mm perpetuelle pocket watch that spanned across four metals: platinum, pink, white and yellow gold.

    Diving into the ref. 3430 perpetual calendar minute repeater, the yellow gold coin edged cased timepiece is fitted with a classic guilloche dial, compacted with information yet extremely well-balanced with all elements clearly legible. Powering this wristwatch is the calibre 567 derived from the Lemania minute repeating calibre cal. 399 with the perpetual calendar mechanism on top. Aesthetically distinctive by its triple finger bridges and decorated with Côte de Genève throughout, the movement and caseback is signed off with No. 34.

    Matched as a pair, the No. 34 perpetuelle pocket watch ref. 1890 is truly spectacular. Based on similar Breguet pocket watches from the late 18th century, it proudly displays a hammer-winding mechanism that all connoisseurs can admire with the naked eye thanks to its large case size. Absolutely a pleasure to appreciate, the architecture and finishings of the movement is a work of art. From the oscillating weight crafted in platinum with anti-friction sapphire rollers to the serpentine steel arm, to the parachute shock absorber on both pivots that stands out against the golden movement strikingly. It is notable that this was developed and manufactured by Michel Parmigiani in 1990s while Breguet was under ownership of Investcorp.

    Documented with the original Breguet certificates, the No. 34 Souscription set with its original wooden presentation box is highly collectible in all aspects.

  • Artist Biography

    Breguet

    Swiss • 1775

    Established in 1775 by Abraham Louis Breguet, widely considered the greatest watchmaker of all time, the storied brand continues to thrive in the modern era, creating exceptional high-end watches as the Swatch Group's premier prestige brand. Some of the most important and lasting inventions in watchmaking are attributed to Abraham Louis Breguet, including the tourbillon, shock resistance and the use of hammers and gongs employed in nearly all minute repeating watches made since.

    Eighteenth and nineteenth century Breguet pocketwatches are especially sought-after by collectors, and many of them were made for the elite of European society, including Napoléon and Marie Antoinette. Key wristwatches from the twentieth century include oversized dress watches, two-register chronographs, triple calendars and Type XX aviator's chronographs made for the French military and civilians.

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Σ840

Ref. Wristwatch: Ref. 3430; Pocket Watch: Ref. 1890
An attractive and well-preserved souscription set of yellow gold watches: a minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases and leap year indication; a pocket watch with date, power reserve indication and moon phases with certificate and fitted presentation box, numbered 34 of a limited edition of 300 pieces

Circa 1991
Wristwatch: 37mm diameter; Pocket Watch: 62mm diameter
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate
HK$620,000 - 1,500,000 
€72,400-175,000
$79,500-192,000

Sold for HK$1,016,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001
WatchesHK@phillips.com

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI

Hong Kong Auction 24 - 25 May 2023