Manufacturer: Cartier Year: Circa 1968 Case No: 52960, 024 and 040 Model Name: Tank Cintrée Material: 18K yellow gold Calibre: Manual, 17 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Leather Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold deployant clasp with Cartier hand stamped numbers and "EJ" hallmark Dimensions: 45mm Length and 23.5mm Width Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
The present watch is a wonderful example of a Tank Cintrée from the 1960s. Featuring strong hallmarks throughout the case, this watch is preserved in excellent condition, displaying a combination of brushed and polished sharp finishes, evidencing a lack of intervention to the watch. It furthermore shows Cartier's fine and superior craftsmanship.
The case is particularly large for a 1960s watch, with the rectangular curved case sitting incredibly well on the wrist, showcasing Cartier's eye for design and proportions. The dial is preserved in excellent condition, with hardly any blemishes or tarnishing. It is signed "Paris" above 6 o'clock. The watch furthermore features blued steel hands, giving the watch a fresh and modern update. It moreover retains its original yellow gold folding deployant clasp which is also numbered and stamped "EJ" for Edmond Jaeger.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.