Manufacturer: Cartier Year: Circa 2010 Reference No: 2396 Case No: 0485 CC Model Name: Tortue Monopoussoir CPCP Material: 18K white gold Calibre: Manual, 045 MC, 22 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Leather Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp Dimensions: 34mm Width and 43mm Length Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed Accessories: Accompanied by Cartier travelling pouch.
Catalogue Essay
One of the most emblematic and classic watch cases of the early 20th century is the Tortue. Designed by Louis Cartier in 1912, the rounded tonneau-shaped case was elegant and sophisticated and named “tortue à pattes” or “turtle on legs” both for its similarity to the animal’s shape and symbolism of good fortune and longevity. Cartier has long used the case since its introduction, and in 1998 they introduced their Cartier Privée Paris Collection (CPCP) Tortue Monopoussoir chronograph. The collection sought to bring modern watches to collectors who wanted a vintage look. Available from 1998 until 2008, the collection was based on their legendary designs that have made the brand so famous and sought after amongst collectors.
The first monopoussoir, or monopusher, chronograph was released by Cartier in 1928 and the modern edition remains close to the original, but with a larger, more contemporary case featuring the manual caliber 045MC, interestingly co-developed by F. P. Journe, Denis Flageollet and Vianney Halter. The case has a classic look with the single button chronograph operated through the crown giving the watch a clean, uncluttered appeal.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.