Manufacturer: Cartier Year: Circa 2000 Reference No: 2339 Case No: 137’297CD Model Name: Tank Americaine Material: 18K white gold and diamond Calibre: Quartz Bracelet/Strap: Crocodile Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp Dimensions: 45mm. Length Signed: Case and dial signed
Catalogue Essay
Cartier’s Tank wristwatch is one of the most recognizable designs today, and when introduced over 100 years ago, the firm could have had no knowledge it would become an icon amongst cultural, fashion and watch enthusiasts. Since it first appeared, the model has undergone many iterations but they all carry the DNA of the original. Introduced in the late 1980’s, the Tank Américaine is a modern reinterpretation of the Tank Cintrée the iconic curved rectangular Cartier of the 1920’s. The large 45mm length case was Cartier’s response to the growing trend toward larger watches. While no longer sporting the curve of the earlier Cintrée the rounding of the sides with the flat back give the illusion of a curved watch. Originally made in yellow gold, today there are many variations, as with the present example with quartz chronograph movement and diamonds.
In excellent original condition this is a modern watch with a traditional past. Cartier chose the Tank Américaine as its representative model in 2017 when they introduced a stainless steel version to celebrate its 100th anniversary.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.