Manufacturer: Cartier Year: Circa 2008 Reference No: 2396G Case No: 18314CE Model Name: Tortue Chrongraphe Monopoussoir Material: 18K white gold Calibre: Manual, cal.045MC, 22 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Crocodile Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp Dimensions: 34mm width Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
One of the most emblematic and classic watch cases of the early 20th century is the Tortue. Designed by Louis Cartier in 1912, the rounded tonneau-shaped case was elegant and sophisticated and named “tortue à pattes” or “turtle on legs” both for its similarity to the animal’s shape and symbolism of good fortune and longevity. The first monopoussoir, or monopusher, chronograph was released by Cartier in 1928 and the modern edition remains close to the original, but with a larger, more contemporary case featuring the manual movement developed by THA Ébauche. Founded in 1996 by a group of talented, now renowned watchmakers Vianney Halter, Dennis Flageollet and Francois-Paul Journe, the manual wound calibre 045MC was born and was used in the CPCP collection. Featuring a clutch system, the motion of the second wheel of the chronograph’s central wheel is activated by a double swivel pin, enabling the hands to glide smoothly across the dial. Highly exclusive and adorned with glamour of diamonds, the present Tortue Chrongraphe Monopoussoir cased in white gold wears with sophistication. Bejeweled with brightness from the two rows of diamonds on its case, the ivory hue of the guilloché dial is further contrasted with coolness of the classic blued-steel Breguet hands.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.