Cartier - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII Hong Kong Friday, May 24, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Cartier
    Year: Circa 2000s
    Case No: 227’565
    Material: 18K yellow gold and lapis lazuli
    Calibre: Manual
    Dimensions: 48.5mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Cartier hang tag.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Cartier sustains their legacy of producing the most refined and opulent jewelry timepieces, as exemplified by this exquisite pocket watch encased in lapis lazuli with a yellow gold bow. Its case number and “Cartier Paris” engraving is crisp, and French hallmark indicated by an eagle head found on the bow remains deep. Its dual chapter ring continues a design first introduced in the 1920s that epitomized Cartier's avant-garde spirit. The double chapter ring made its debut in Cartier's collection circa 1911, around the time Edmond Jaeger began supplying the maison with pioneering ultra-thin movements like the famous 1.38mm cal. 145. This allowed for new dimensions of elegant restraint.

    Yet even with newly slender proportions, Cartier indulged in beautiful intricacy as seen in the guilloché dial of this example. The gorgeous white enamel outer chapter ring contains alternating Roman numerals and delicate floral motifs in gold, while the inner ring with Arabic numerals add complexity. The lapis lazuli case furthers the richness – its vibrant blue hue contrasting sublimely with the pristine gold dial.

    At once opulent yet refined, this rare dual chapter ring pocket watch crystallizes Cartier's flair for blending luxury craftsmanship with timeless style. The lapis lazuli case is incredibly well-preserved, which is hard to come by. Both a jeweled objet d'art and feat of precision horology, it remains a coveted symbol of the era.

    Phillips is honored to offer the present example for the first time in our auction room.

  • Artist Biography

    Cartier

    French

    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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836

A very rare, attractive and well-preserved yellow gold and lapis lazuli open-faced keyless pocket watch with double chapter ring and guilloché dial

Circa 2000s
48.5mm diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
HK$160,000 - 260,000 
€19,200-31,200
$20,500-33,300

Sold for HK$203,200

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+ 852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII

Hong Kong Auction 24 - 25 May 2024