Manufacturer: Daniel Roth Year: Circa 1990 Reference No: C187 Case No: N° 77 Model Name: Regulateur Tourbillon Material: 18K white gold Calibre: Manual, 19 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Leather Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Daniel Roth pin buckle Dimensions: 38mm Length and 35mm Width Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Catalogue Essay
Considered to be one of the most remarkable contemporary watchmakers, Daniel Roth trained in his early career with high-end brands like Audemars Piguet and has played a crucial role in the revival of Breguet. Offering his creative take on traditional, Breguet-inspired watches, of which this piece is an enduring testament, he designed his double-faced Tourbillon, reference C187 in 1988, and released it the following year as a way to announce his independence and the creation of his eponymous brand.
Upon launch of his brand, Roth immediately established his personal design language, the most obvious being the unusual ellipsocurvex shape, hands with pointed tips and dials with guilloché patterns, all elements you can find in the present white gold Regulateur Tourbillion. The Daniel Roth reference C187 is probably on of the watchmaker's better known creations. With classical lines and gentle curves, its design is as equally relevant in today's standards as it was more than 30 years ago when it was released. On the front side, taking centre stage is the large tourbillon escapement with an original triple arm seconds hand featuring three hands of different lengths that indicate the seconds on three different seconds registers each calibrated for 20 seconds. The caseback features a retrograde power reserve and date indications.
Cased in white gold, the dial is also made of the same precious material and features a remarkably executed guillochage. The hour-minute disc features classic Roman numerals and is in satin-brushed silver, as well as the lateral frames that indicate the number of the watch, the brand name and the seconds. The movement that powers this remarkable timepiece is based off the Lemania 387 ébauche, which has been highly modified and finished at the highest of levels.
Preserved in excellent overall condition, this rare Roth wristwatch exudes elegance and refinement and is one to keep a closer eye on.