Daniel Roth - The Geneva Watch Auction: XVII Geneva Saturday, May 13, 2023 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Daniel Roth
    Year: Circa 1990
    Reference No: C187
    Case No: N° 77
    Model Name: Regulateur Tourbillon
    Material: 18K white gold
    Calibre: Manual, 19 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Daniel Roth pin buckle
    Dimensions: 38mm Length and 35mm Width
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Considered to be one of the most remarkable contemporary watchmakers, Daniel Roth trained in his early career with high-end brands like Audemars Piguet and has played a crucial role in the revival of Breguet. Offering his creative take on traditional, Breguet-inspired watches, of which this piece is an enduring testament, he designed his double-faced Tourbillon, reference C187 in 1988, and released it the following year as a way to announce his independence and the creation of his eponymous brand.

    Upon launch of his brand, Roth immediately established his personal design language, the most obvious being the unusual ellipsocurvex shape, hands with pointed tips and dials with guilloché patterns, all elements you can find in the present white gold Regulateur Tourbillion. The Daniel Roth reference C187 is probably on of the watchmaker's better known creations. With classical lines and gentle curves, its design is as equally relevant in today's standards as it was more than 30 years ago when it was released. On the front side, taking centre stage is the large tourbillon escapement with an original triple arm seconds hand featuring three hands of different lengths that indicate the seconds on three different seconds registers each calibrated for 20 seconds. The caseback features a retrograde power reserve and date indications.

    Cased in white gold, the dial is also made of the same precious material and features a remarkably executed guillochage. The hour-minute disc features classic Roman numerals and is in satin-brushed silver, as well as the lateral frames that indicate the number of the watch, the brand name and the seconds. The movement that powers this remarkable timepiece is based off the Lemania 387 ébauche, which has been highly modified and finished at the highest of levels.

    Preserved in excellent overall condition, this rare Roth wristwatch exudes elegance and refinement and is one to keep a closer eye on.

33

Ref. C187
A fine, attractive and rare regulateur tourbillon wristwatch with date and power reserve indication

Circa 1990
38mm Length and 35mm Width
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate
CHF30,000 - 60,000 
€31,200-62,500
$34,300-68,500

Sold for CHF152,400

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
AGhotbi@phillips.com

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88
TiffanyTo@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: XVII

Geneva Auction 13 - 14 May 2023