Patek Philippe - The Geneva Watch Auction: XII Geneva Saturday, November 7, 2020 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: 1939
    Reference No: 96
    Movement No: 864’037
    Case No: 296’207
    Model Name: Calatrava
    Material: 18k pink gold
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 12'''120, 20 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 9k gold aftermarket bracelet measuring 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 9k gold deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 30mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with pink dial in 1939 and its subsequent sale on November 22, 1940

  • Catalogue Essay

    Could this reference 96 in pink gold with pink dial (as confirmed by the Extract from the Archives), Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 and pearl hour markers be the absolute epitome of elegance, sophistication and sex appeal? The overall beauty of this watch cannot be underlined enough!

    The reference 96 is a cornerstone of Patek Philippe production, and the first example of what is today possibly the most elegant and distinguished line of dress watches: the Calatrava collection. Launched in 1932, it was not only the first Calatrava, but also one of the Patek Philippe’s first models to feature a reference number (the reference system was indeed introduced in 1932). The reference 96 was also amongst Patek Philippe’s first models to apply the Bauhaus design principle of “form follows function”. Indeed there are no additional and unnecessary adornments or decorations. The piece achieves its powerful impact thanks to clean, simple, and elegant lines. By many, reference 96 is considered the model against which every and all dress watches should be compared – a true benchmark for the category.

    The present example notably features an indirect center seconds mechanism: the result of a collaboration between Victorin Piguet and Patek Philippe, this ébauche featured an additional centre seconds mechanism that was ingeniously added to the existing 12'''120 subsidiary seconds register movement, attesting to both firm's technical superiority.

    Fresh to the market, the present watch is only the 11th known reference 96 in pink gold with pink dial and indirect centre seconds

  • Artist Biography

    Patek Philippe

    Swiss • 1839

    Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

    Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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Ref. 96
A fine and attractive pink gold wristwatch with pink dial and indirect centre seconds

1939
30mm Diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
CHF15,000 - 25,000 
€13,900-23,200
$16,300-27,200

Sold for CHF18,900

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

41 79 637 1724
aghotbi@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: XII

Geneva Auction 6 - 7 November 2020