Patek Philippe - The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI Geneva Saturday, November 5, 2022 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: 1956
    Reference No: 2597
    Movement No: 727'318
    Case No: 309'783
    Model Name: Calatrava "Travel Time"
    Material: 18K pink gold
    Calibre: Manual, Louis Cottier for Patek Philippe Cal. 12-400HS, 18 jewels, stamped twice with the Geneva Seal
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Patek Philippe 18K pink gold pin buckle
    Dimensions: 35.5mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with applied hour markers and beaded minute track in 1956 and its subsequent sale on October 27, 1960

  • Catalogue Essay

    Patek Philippe released the reference 2597 in 1958, which was based on a Louis Cottier-designed prototype from 1953 with Heures Sautantes, or jumping hours. Cottier, an independent watchmaker now considered a legend of the field, was fascinated with multi-time zones and travel -time complications.

    The model is based on reference 570, of which is basically a carbon copy with the addition of the two pushers on the left band. Operating them makes the hour hand instantaneously jump forward or backward by one hour, allowing for easy adjustment of the time in case of travelling through time zones. So intelligent and enduring was this travel time design that versions of the same system can still be found in modern and current production Patek Philippe watches such as ref. 5524 and ref. 5134 - and in fact its evolution was the focus of the latest Advanced Research effort: the travel time Aquanaut ref. 5650 (see lot 149). A subtle addition which betrays the attention to details of Patek Philippe can be found in the pusher protection: two elements prevent inadvertent operation of the pushers, which can be effectively operated by inserting a nail into the appropriate slit.

    Production of the model can be divided into two series: the First Series, like the present watch, features a single hour hand. The Second Series, launched in 1962 and named 2597-1, added an additional blued steel hour hand, thus showing both “home” and “away” times. It is important to point out that when this Second Series was launched, Patek Philippe gave retailers who still had in stock 2-hand pieces the opportunity to upgrade them with a “3-hand service kit”. Consequently, First Series examples retaining the original 2-hand configuration are extremely scarce.

    Dials as well present an evolution: earlier models, such as the present piece, feature engraved/enameled baton markers. A very costly production methodology, it was later abandoned in favour on the applied baton markers seen on Second Series dials.

    Finally, the movement as well presents an evolution - making this one of the “most upgraded” vintage models of the company, quite ironically considered its limited production. Early pieces, such as the present one, are fitted with cal. 12-400, while later examples are fitted with cal. 27-400.

    Retaining a two-hand, engraved/enamel dial configuration and the 12-400 caliber, this watch represents the purest, earliest iteration of the model.

    This would already be enough to put the savvy collector on “high alert” but it is just the beginning of what the watch has to offer. It is in fact an incredibly well-preserved pink gold example. If a 90-piece production makes a model rare and attractive, the elusive pink version propels it to new heights of collectability. In total, it is estimated that only 15 pink gold examples were made in total and so far, the market has seen 7 of them. Of these, only 2 - including the present piece - feature the 2-hand, cal. 12-400 configuration.

    Finally, the condition of the piece is as stellar as its configuration. The case presents extremely sharp edges, strong satin finish, and deep hallmarks: it is in truly outstanding condition. The dial as well will not disappoint the most demanding collector. Just a hint of off-white patina indicated the passage of time, while the dial surface is unspoiled and the engraved enameled numerals are flawless.

    Merging condition, rarity, technical proficiency and utmost collectability, the present piece is without a doubt one of the most fascinating and important vintage pieces made by Patek Philippe to appear at auction in recent years.

  • Artist Biography

    Patek Philippe

    Swiss • 1839

    Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

    Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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Ref. 2597
A superbly well-preserved, very rare and highly elegant pink gold travel time wristwatch with two hands, first series dial and first series movement, one of two known in this configuration

1956
35.5mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate
CHF120,000 - 250,000 
€124,000-257,000
$120,000-250,000

Sold for CHF163,800

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East
+41 22 317 81 81
AGhotbi@phillips.com
 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva
+41 22 317 96 63
TiffanyTo@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI

Geneva Auction 5 - 6 November 2022