Patek Philippe - Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 Geneva Friday, November 8, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: 1989
    Reference No: 3970EG
    Movement No: 875'376
    Case No: 2'856'518
    Material: 18K white gold
    Calibre: Manual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
    Dimensions: 36mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped by "Cortina Watch Centre", Extract from the Archives confirming production of this watch with silvery opaline white dial and white gold indexes in 1989 and its subsequent sale on July 14, 1989, Leather wallet and product literature.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Patek Philippe’s reference 3970 was launched in 1986 as a replacement for the iconic reference 2499. While maintaining the signature aesthetics found in both reference 1518 and 2499 the reference 3970 used a Lemania based ebauche as opposed to the previous Valjoux movement. These models also had a leap year and 24 hour indication for the first time.

    The reference was produced in yellow gold, pink gold, white gold and platinum across a total of four series with production spanning over 19 years. It is estimated that throughout its course of production over 4,000 examples of the reference were produced.

    First series (1986 – 1988) – Features a snap back case, feuille hands and rectangular indexes. Only produced in yellow gold with an estimated 100 examples produced.

    Second series (1987 – 1990) – Features a solid screw back case “E – Etanche”, feuille hands and baton indexes. Produced in all four case materials with an estimated 450 examples produced across all metals. (The present example)

    Third series (1989 – 1995) – Features a solid screw back case “E – Etanche” with an extra sapphire caseback, baton hands and lapidated indexes. Estimated 1,350 examples produced across all metals.

    Fourth series (1994 – 2004) – Same configuration as the third series however there is a change in serial number ranges in the movement and case and from 1997 onwards it features deployant clasp. Estimated 2,000 examples produced across all four metals.

    The present example is part of the 2nd series with screw-down back from 1989, thus very early into the production of the model. The specimen furthermore impresses with the superb condition of both dial and case. Most notably, the hallmarks to the sides of the lugs - a notoriously sensitive place when it comes to hallmark preservation - are clear and crisp, indicating little to no polishing of the piece. Even the hallmarks on the outside of the caseback are crisp and visible. This is an even more sensitive location than the lugs, as the simple act of continuously wearing the watch might lead to softening of the satin finish or hallmarks.

    According to research, white gold is the rarest of the second series with two examples having appeared on the market to the best of our knowledge. This highly well-preserved example complete of its Certificate is thus an unmissable opportunity for the farsighted connoisseur.

  • Artist Biography

    Patek Philippe

    Swiss • 1839

    Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

    Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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Ref. 3970EG
A rare, early and well-preserved white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, leap year indication, 24-hours indication and certificate

1989
36mm Diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
CHF80,000 - 160,000 
€85,400-171,000
$93,400-187,000

Sold for CHF292,100

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
aghotbi@phillips.com

 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

tto@phillips.com

 

 

 

Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999

Geneva Auction 8 November 2024