Patek Philippe - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII Hong Kong Friday, May 24, 2024 | Phillips
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    • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
      Year: 1990
      Reference No: 3800/1
      Movement No: 1’428’456
      Case No: 2’876’358
      Model Name: Nautilus
      Material: 18K pink gold
      Calibre: Automatic, cal. 335 SC, 29 jewels
      Bracelet/Strap: 18K pink gold Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 210mm
      Clasp/Buckle: 18K pink and white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
      Dimensions: 37.5mm diameter
      Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
      Accessories: Accompanied by Certificate of Origin dated 15th August 1990 stamped Magasin Patek Philippe SA, Geneva, Letter from Magasin Patek Philippe SA confirming the production number of the model and sale of the timepiece, fitted presentation box and outer packaging. Further delivered with two Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming its date of manufacture in 1990 and its subsequent date of sale on 28th August 1990.

    • Catalogue Essay

      Watch collecting is like a game of hide-and-seek, the watches being the hider, and you the watch collector— the seeker. Ready or not, the scattered are rather good at hiding themselves. Perhaps a ‘game’ that started with hours turned into months, years and even decades, this marathon summons the most passionate and persistent seeker with patience, and sometimes, luck. Those who are in for the long-haul are ignited by the thrill of the hunt of the elusive. Often extremely rare or far from reach, these are the grail watches for the most astute seekers. But look no further, you have found the object of desire, the elusive pink Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3800/1.

      The Patek Philippe Nautilus needs no further introduction, it is one of, if not the greatest, sports watch of all time. From the first Jumbo ref. 3700 that was penned by Gerald Genta in 1976, a new demand of modestly-sized pieces to a wider audience emerged towards the early 80s. Enters the dawn of the ref. 3800, perfectly positioning itself between its big brother ref. 3700 and elder sister ref. 4700 (27mm diameter) born one year earlier in 1980, the ref. 3800 is sized at 37.5mm diameter and is now considered the quintessential choice for both ladies and gentlemen.

      Baton markers, Roman numerals, diamonds, sapphires and emeralds-set markers, you name it, the ref. 3800 enjoyed a much wider range of dial configurations aside from the blue, white or gold dials compared to its siblings. Some of the rarest includes the Arabic numerals telephone dial and the exotic radial dial featuring a grey sunburst finish and painted white markers. Last but not least, the unusual ‘Blanc Ceramique Cadran’ translate as white ceramic dial (also known as cream dial) with a smooth and clean finish extruding its milky charm like no other. They can be found with baton markers or jazzed up with 11 diamonds around the hours like the present specimen. It is notable that while research shown that early date-wheels on the ref. 3700 and ref. 3800 are in black, from 1990 onwards, examples of the ref. 3800 are fitted with white date-wheels.

      Like the ref. 3700, the ref. 3800 was produced in a range of metals, from stainless steel being the most common, followed by yellow gold, two-tone gold, white gold, platinum and the most elusive of all, pink gold. Bypassing the radar of many, these pink gold cased specimens are a truly rare breed. According to scholars, only 10 pieces were ever produced in the history of Patek Philippe. Where true connoisseurs would recognise its importance in the history of Nautilus, these 10 pieces were sold at Patek Philippe Genéve in 1990 and only 3 examples have resurfaced in public, until now.

      The Elusive Pink Nautilus ref. 3800/1

      Nautilus 3800/1 in pink gold to appear in auction market:

      M 1'427'659, C 2'876'350, 1990, Black matte ribbed dial with 11 Diamond-set indexes, σ. SWISS .σ

      M 1’428’381, C 2’876’355, 1990, White Ceramic with 11 Diamond-set indexes, σ SWISS σ

      M 1’428’456, C 2’876’358, 1990, White Ceramic with 11 Diamond-set indexes, σ SWISS σ (The present example)

      M Unknown, C Unknown, 1990, Black matte ribbed dial with 11 Diamond-set indexes, σ SWISS σ



      Fresh-to-the-market, the present specimen is the 4th example ever to appear in the auction market. Incredibly rare, it is the 2nd example to bear the dial configuration of the ‘cream dial’ with diamond markers. The first example bears a movement number of 1’428’381 and a case number of 2’876’355 was offered in 2010. Fourteen year since another example has surface in the market, it is only 2 numbers apart from the mentioned, the present example has a case number of 2’876’358. As far as we know from examples that has surfaced in the market, all pink gold ref. 3800/1 were fitted with a white date-wheel that corresponds to 1990.

      Boasting an exceptionally well-preserved pink monobloc case, the gentle cast of warm pink radiates unique charm on this Nautilus. The case proportion is strong, each facet, each curve is well-defined, two strong hallmarks are further stamped behind the lugs. Following through down the ears of the case, the pink gold bracelet is equally gorgeous. Tapered with satin and high-polished links that connects one to the other, it is notable that gold bracelets of the ref. 3800 are thinner compared to the stainless steel version. Balancing the heft of gold throughout, this allows the watch to sit close to the wrist with maximum comfort. Moving on to the buckle that bears the early raised Calatrava cross emblem, as one unfold the clasp reveals a small sun hallmark that denotes its metal. Made in white gold distinguished by the ‘750’ and sun hallmark, these can only be found on gold or platinum models. With corresponding serial number stamped inside its caseback and between the ear, the present specimen of the ref. 3800/1 in pink gold truly ticks every box for all serious collectors.

      Crafted, assembled and delivered to the Magasin Patek Philippe SA in 1990, this pink gold ref. 3800/1 was sold in August of the same year. A true companion that wouldn’t be the same if one separates from the other, we known this thanks to its Certificate of Origin that stayed together with this precious specimen for over 34 years. Giving us further insight into the mystery of the pink Nautilus, alongside is a very special letter that carries the shimmering logo of Patek Philippe Geneve.

      Addressed in German, the letterhead from the Patek Philippe Shop on Rue du Rhône Geneva was addressed to a gentleman by the name of Alfred Fischer on 28th August 1990. An exceptional piece of documentation, this letter was signed by André Glad, manager of the Patek Philippe shop. A myth brought to light, the letter mentioned up until date, only 10 examples were made for the ref. 3800/1 in pink gold, and were all sold exclusively through this very shop in Geneva.

      Confirmed both by its Certificate of Origin and Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives, the present specimen is a pink gold 3800/1 born with a ‘white ceramic’ dial with 11 diamond hour markers. Furthermore, the archive confirms the date of sale of this timepiece on 28th August 1990, same date presented on the letter by the shop.

      Acquired by an astute collector from Germany and kept privately for ten years, PHILLIPS is honoured to present this exquisite ref. 3800/1 in pink to the market. For those who hunts for the ultimate, this is ‘it’, a once in a blue moon opportunity to catch this hidden gem once and for all.

    • Artist Biography

      Patek Philippe

      Swiss • 1839

      Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

      Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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Ref. 3800/1
An incredibly rare, elusive and superbly attractive pink gold wristwatch with ‘white ceramic’ dial, diamond-set indexes, center seconds, date, bracelet, Certificate of Origin, confirmation letter from Magasin Patek Philippe SA and presentation box, one of four examples known in pink gold

1990
37.5mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Full Cataloguing

Estimate
HK$2,000,000 - 4,000,000 
€239,000-478,000
$256,000-513,000

Sold for HK$2,540,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+ 852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII

Hong Kong Auction 24 - 25 May 2024