Manufacturer: Patek Philippe Year: 1942 Reference No: 96 Movement No: 921’987 Case No: 397’636 Model Name: Calatrava Material: 18K yellow gold Calibre: Manual, cal. 12-120 PS, 18 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Alligator Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle Dimensions: 30.5mm Diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed. Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1942 with Breguet numerals and its subsequent sale on October 16, 1942.
Catalogue Essay
The reference 96 is a cornerstone of Patek Philippe production, and the first example of what is today possibly the most elegant and distinguished line of dress watches: the Calatrava collection. Launched in 1932, it was not only the first Calatrava, but also one of the Patek Philippe’s first models to feature a reference number (the reference system was indeed introduced in 1932). The reference 96 was also amongst Patek Philippe’s first models to apply the Bauhaus design principle of “form follows function”. Indeed there are no additional and unnecessary adornments or decorations. The piece achieves its powerful impact thanks to clean, simple, and elegant lines. By many, reference 96 is considered the model against which every and all dress watches should be compared – a true benchmark for the category.
Throughout its production cycle, many variations were made, with a diverse range of dials that collectors even today enjoy discovering. The present example is that of the second series, produced between 1935 and 1953, fitted with a caliber 12-120 movement. Especially sought after are those with Breguet numerals such as the present example, which also bears a beautiful and delicate pair of spade-shaped hands, creating a uniquely elegant dial layout.
Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.
Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.