Manufacturer: Patek Philippe Year: Circa 1935 Reference No: 96 Movement No: 171'333 Case No: 294'333 Model Name: Calatrava Material: 18K yellow gold Calibre: Manual, cal. 12''120, 18 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Leather Dimensions: 31mm Diameter Signed: Case, dial, and movement signed.
Catalogue Essay
Introduced to the market in 1932, the Patek Philippe ref. 96 was the first serially produced, referenced timepiece by the firm. Considered as the very first Calatrava model, the reference features a three-piece 30.5mm diameter round-shaped case made by Geneva-based master casemaker Antoine Gerlach (identifiable via key no. 4) for yellow gold examples. With a production spanning over 40 years, a total of four series of the reference were produced. Examples of the reference 96 featured small seconds, with more desirable examples featuring center seconds, known as the reference 96 SC – of which the present lot is a superb example.
The present reference 96 SC (“secondes centre”) is part of the first of the four series of the reference 96 SC, bearing the caliber 12’’. It was famed Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau which requested these movements in 1910, intending them to feature a cam wheel regulator, allowing for precise and practical adjustments to the watch, a moustache-shaped lever, wolf's tooth winding gears, and gold wheels for the wheel train. Based on a LeCoultre ébauche, the indirect seconds mechanism is cleverly hidden under the dial.
Not just rarity within, but rarity without. The combination of long signature and an incredibly attractive, champlevé enamel sector dial preserved in stunning condition, renders the present watch as one of the rarest in existence. Fresh-to-the-market, with a charming monogram on the caseback and elegant proportions, it is a wonderful example of the earliest iteration Calatrava.
Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.
Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.