Manufacturer: Rolex Year: 1986 Reference No: 18039B Movement No: 1'928'998 Case No: 9'586'742 Model Name: Day-Date "Tridor" Material: 18K white and 18K yellow gold Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels Bracelet/Strap: 18K white, yellow and pink gold Rolex President bracelet stamped "55" to the endlinks, max length 190mm Clasp/Buckle: 18K white, yellow and pink gold Rolex hidden deployant clasp stamped "548 L6" Dimensions: 36mm Diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
Among all Rolex lines of watches, the Day-Date model is the one that presents the most impressive plethora of variations, with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-finished designs. Since its inception in 1956, the model remains one of the most surprising and diverse flagship models Rolex has ever produced. Intended to be a luxury proposal in the Rolex line, apart from prototype models, the Day-Date has only been cased in precious metals, attesting to its glamour and prestige.
This wonderfully preserved Day-Date features a beautiful briar root wood dial. Given that the wood is a natural material, no two wood dials are exactly the same in appearance making each example virtually unique.
Furthermore, it is particularly rare to find an example featuring a two-tone case and Tridor bracelet. Tridor is the name given by Rolex to its proprietary bracelet construction in three gold colours, with the central links featuring the three gold variations for a truly unique aesthetic effect.
This particular example is preserved in particularly impressive and absolutely unrestored condition, with an obviously unpolished case featuring crisp hallmarks beneath the lugs, absolutely sharp edges to the lugs and, equally sharp ribbing to the bezel.
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
Ref. 18039B A charming, unusual and very rare yellow, pink and white gold automatic wristwatch with center seconds, day, date, briarwood dial and bracelet
1986 36mm Diameter Case, dial, movement and clasp signed