The introduction of the Rolex reference 5512 in 1959 was a significant transition in the history of Submariners, being the first diver’s wristwatch to feature the addition of crown guards, the Submariner lineage was made evermore robust and versatile. Aesthetically more or less of the Submariner we know today, the very first crown guards on the famed model were square-shaped of which estimated only very few exist. Under experimentation and constant iterating of its timepieces, Rolex quickly reshaped these crown guards into “eagle beak”, followed by pointed crown guards from 1959 to 1963 (sometimes abbreviated by collectors as PCG), as found on the present example. While these early specimens are no doubt elevated to a grail status, the present example bears an even rarer dial configuration, one of the most sought-after gems, the Submariner Explorer dial. Named after the Rolex Explorer design by its iconic 3-6-9 markers, these rarefied dials were produced in very low numbers and are known to have appeared on “Big Crown” Submariner ref. 6200, 6538, 5510, and during the early 60s on the ref. 5513 and 5512. Interestingly, being rarer than the 5513, most 5512 with this dial configuration were made for the UK market.
Over the production of the references, the 5512 & 5513 went through many more design nuances with chronological significance, these details of subtlety that excites vintage Rolex collectors. In fact, when it comes to the Explorer dial, there are four types of explorer dial further divided by their use of radium or tritium luminescent material as follow:
1961-1962 – Exclamation Mark dial with chapter ring, absence of “m” for meters and non-italic FT (present example)
1962 – 1963 – Underline dial with white Swiss inscription, open chapter ring, meter first depth rating
1963 – 1964 – Underline dial with gilt Swiss inscription, open chapter ring, meter first depth rating
1963 – 1964 - Underline dial with gilt SWISS < T-25, open chapter ring, meter first depth rating
The present Submariner Explorer dial ref. 5112 is undoubtedly part of the earliest production recognizable by its exceptional details such as the attractive two-liner gilt dial with chapter ring and pointed crown guards. Furthermore, the depth rating differs from later dials with the absence of “m” for 200 meters, as well as a capitalized, non-italic “FT” inscription for feet. Marked with the most desirable and important detail of all is the dot that sits at 6 o’clock which identified by collectors as the “Examination mark” dial. Such dials were in production only for a very short period between 1961 until 1962 to designate the transition of luminous material (tritium over radium) with lower radiation count due to health hazards during the era.
According to research, not only is this the earliest known ref. 5512 with Explorer dial, but also an extraordinary fresh-to-the-market gem. Extremely well-preserved with wonderful patina, strong proportions and beautifully aged lumes. The bezel insert also belongs to the period correct “Long 5” insert which has also faded into a an attractive dark grey hue.
A true treasure and an impressive well-preserved example, the present Explorer-dial Submariner is a highly unusual and extremely attractive version of one of the most beloved dive watches ever made, qualities that make it a must-have for collectors of important vintage watches.
