Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI Hong Kong Wednesday, May 24, 2023 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1965
    Reference No: 1625
    Movement No: D40’975
    Case No: 1’273’079, inside caseback repeated "1625"
    Model Name: Datejust, 'Turn-O-Graph'
    Material: Stainless steel and 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1560, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Gilt Rolex pin buckle
    Dimensions: 36mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex Japan Authorised Chronometer Certificate, instruction manual, product literature, plastic card holder, additional spring bars and fitted presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Initially marketed as “the watch with a thousand and one uses”, the Datejust ref. 6609 is the true “Thunderbird” and was presented at the Basel Fair around 1953.

    A unique name for a watch, it originated from the nickname referring to the USAF Air Demonstration Squadron, the first supersonic aerobatic team established in 1953. It all began with one pilot sporting a ref. 6609, which undoubtedly became the go-to timepiece for the rest of the team. For Rolex, this patriotic reference was the ideal marketing tool to capture the American market gradually.

    Following the original came the present model, the ref. 1625 with an upgraded cal. 1560. In production from 1959 to 1977, the reference was subsequently delivered in variants of yellow gold, two-tone stainless steel and yellow gold, along with stainless steel and white gold.

    Armed in a robust stainless steel case, the present ref. 1625 is fitted with a gilt black dial, highlighted by a yellow-gold halo in the form of an engine-turned “Turn-O-Graph" bezel. The yellow gold theme is continued on the dial, featuring a striking configuration of raised coronet, applied baton indexes, inscriptions and set of hands in the same warm hue as the bezel that instantly pops out of the obscure background. The lume plots on this example have developed a beautiful creamy tint that further enhances the watch’s overall vintage appeal and are preserved in their full-bodied pearled formation.

    Rolex’s ability to blend styles is largely why they have such a large, concrete following. While this configuration may seem slightly dressier than their other staples, Datejust's Oyster case adds another layer of sport and natural ease that's nearly unique to the brand—excellently preserved with an attractive patina to the yellow gold, the present ref. 1625 from circa 1965 truly calls attention to the timelessness of the firm’s two-tone case constructions.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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1003

Ref. 1625
A fine, rare and well-preserved two-tone stainless steel and yellow gold wristwatch with "Turn-O-Graph" bezel, center seconds, date, gilt black dial and presentation box

Circa 1965
36mm diameter
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate
HK$24,000 - 40,000 
€2,800-4,700
$3,100-5,100

Sold for HK$48,260

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001
WatchesHK@phillips.com

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI

Hong Kong Auction 24 - 25 May 2023