Manufacturer: Rolex Year: Circa 1988 Reference No: 16238 Movement No: 8’357’505 Case No: R697’682 Model Name: Datejust Material: 18K yellow gold Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Leather Clasp/Buckle: Gilt Rolex pin buckle Dimensions: 36mm diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex guarantee stamped Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Co., LTD., Hong Kong dated 15th February 1989.
Catalogue Essay
Hardstone dials are without a doubt one of the most interesting elements featured in some rare examples of Rolex timepieces. Offering a wide array of colors, textures and appeal, these natural hardstone dials can simply be considered as unique, as no other example will ever be the same as another. Extremely tough to execute requiring a rigorous process, each natural hardstone has varying hardness and composition and are extremely fragile. It is believed that the production of these dials come with an 80% wastage rate and usually vary in thickness compared to regular dials.
The present example Rolex Datejust ref. 16238 features one of the most demanded hardstone dials in recent times, onyx. With an opaque glossy and wax-like luster, onyx is ranked 6.5-7 on the Mohs scale of hardness. Paired beautifully against the iconic yellow gold case, the absence of numerals and outer track on the dial allows the wearer to admire the hardstone dial at full view. The present timepiece is very well-preserved with a crisp case and a flawless dial.
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.