Rolex - The New York Watch Auction: XI New York Saturday, December 7, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1955
    Reference No: 6536/6538; inside caseback stamped 6536 with 6538 struck through
    Movement No: N’573’773
    Case No: 89’117
    Model Name: Submariner “Red Depth”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1030, 25 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
    Dimensions: 37mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

  • Catalogue Essay

    An early, transitional Submariner between the small crown 6536 and the “Big Crown” 6538, the present double reference 6536/6538 is an extraordinary find. Less than a dozen are publicly known - all bearing case numbers beginning with 89'XXX dating to 1955, with this example being the earliest to appear to-date.

    With dials bearing a unique red depth rating, these models are further noteworthy in that their casebacks have 6538 crossed-out and are re-engraved with 6536. These casebacks were originally intended for the “Big Crown” reference 6538 model, but were re-worked by Rolex for this incredibly rare transitional model as a cost-savings measure.

    The luminous marker at 6 o'clock is notably brighter than the other luminous hour markers. This feature allowed divers to orient themselves in the dark, and is seen in other 6536/6538 examples. Its long hour hand, early non-hash bezel insert, and ornate engraving inside the center of the caseback are reminiscent of the iconic reference 6200 “Big Crown” Submariner.

    The present example, fresh to the auction market, stands out for its exceptional state of preservation. The case and bezel exhibit minimal signs of wear, with the original factory finishing still crisp and sharp. The original luminous material is still present on the bezel’s triangle at 12 o’clock. The dial is also beautifully preserved, showing pleasing signs of aging and fully intact luminous hour markers.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 6536/6538; inside caseback stamped 6536 with 6538 struck through
A well-preserved, rare, and early stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, black lacquer dial, and red depth rating

Circa 1955
37mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate
$50,000 - 100,000 
CHF44,000-87,900
€46,900-93,700
HK$389,000-777,000

Sold for $88,900

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
watchesny@phillips.com

Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: XI

New York Auction 7 - 8 December 2024