I’ve long posited that there exists a “level after next” in the world of vintage Rolex collecting. And that level consists almost exclusively of triple calendar moon phases – or references 6062 and 8171. These watches are, in my perhaps not so humble opinion, some of the finest, most beautiful, elegant and interesting watches ever produced, by any brand, let alone the world’s most important brand.
8171s are a curious group of watches – because there are so few of them, results are hard to predict. And the defining trait of the 8171, in my opinion, is the large oversized case, with *what should* be very sharp lugs, and finely detailed rear caseback engravings. Now the vast majority of 8171s you see in the market have rounded lugs, and in many cases, barely, if at all visible rear engravings. But I’m me, and that simply wouldn’t do. So in 2017, when my old Hodinkee contributor and pal Eric Wind was working at another auction house in New York – he told me to have a look at a particular 8171 that had a lot going for it. The case is completely mint – crisp and beautiful, in its original proportions. The caseback engravings crisp as can be. The dial, which features yellow gold hands and hour markers – was starting to age in the way that I like my old watches to look – so that, they, you know, look old. What’s more, it was consigned by the original owner. I saw the watch in person, was blown away by it, and decided to bid. Sadly for me, so did a good friend of mine ended up taking it home for a bit more than what I was prepared to spend. I told him if he ever wanted to move this particular 8171 on, I would love to take it off his hands – and one day, not long after, that’s exactly what happened.
This particular 8171 is, to me, what vintage watch collecting is all about. Wonderful, original condition but not void of personality. The dial has some aging, the case a nick or two, but this watch is so remarkably honest. I quickly found an original Gay Freres Oyster style bracelet – period correct, of course – to put on the watch and I wore it, very carefully, for years and years, to many important events. The 8171 is to me an all time great, and this particular example, coming from the original owner in 2017, is the perfect one to have great pride in its quality and originality, but also wear without concern.
