Universal - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII Hong Kong Friday, May 24, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Universal
    Year: 1950
    Reference No: 22560
    Movement No: 2687
    Case No: 22560 – 2
    Model Name: A. Cairelli, Rattrapante
    Material: Stainless steel and gold
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 285, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Calf
    Clasp/Buckle: Steel pin buckle
    Dimensions: 44.5mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed; dial further signed by retailer
    Accessories: Delivered with Universal Geneve Extract from the Archives confirming the production of the present timepiece in 1950 and its case metal.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The initial split-seconds chronograph mechanisms were discovered in late 19th-century pocket watches, where they were utilized for measuring intermediate timing events like lap times in horse racing. However, as wristwatches gained popularity in the early 20th century, single-button (monopusher) chronographs became available. In 1923, Patek Philippe introduced the world's first split-seconds chronograph wristwatch, setting the design standard for subsequent models. Today, these timepieces are highly prized by collectors for their intricate movements and timeless aesthetics. Particularly, oversized military split-chronographs from the mid-20th century are in great demand. Renowned brands such as Rolex, Eberhard, Breitling, and Universal manufactured these exceptional timepieces, which exude a cool, masculine, and iconic appeal.

    The present Universal split-seconds timepiece is an uncommon model created for the Italian Ministry of Defence and the Italian Air Force and it was distributed through the renowned retailer A. Cairelli of Rome and served as a navigation tool during a time when flight crews relied on dead reckoning and beacons for orientation. Universal opted for a 24-hour dial design with a 16-minute subsidiary register, which, thanks to the large 44.5mm case diameter, ensures legibility and ease of reading during nocturnal missions. The retailer's signature is prominently displayed at the 6 o'clock position, a feature found in many collectible military timepieces of the 20th century. Powered by the Valjoux 55 caliber, the same movement used in the famed Rolex reference 4113, this watch exemplifies precision timekeeping and functionality.

    The present example, with its beautifully aged dial, is further enhanced by a gold bezel and split chronograph reset button. It is possible that this particular timepiece was crafted for a high-ranking military officer, symbolizing prestige and honor, or perhaps a civilian as there are no military engravings on the caseback. The collaboration between the Italian Ministry of Defence and retailer A. Cairelli holds significant horological significance. For discerning collectors, this watch represents a rare opportunity to own an enduring piece of history.

  • Artist Biography

    Universal

    Swiss • 1894

    Universal Genève was founded in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1894 and was originally known as "Universal Watch." Since its inception, Universal Genève has produced watches with unusually high quality for their price point. Universal was among the first brands to introduce a chronograph wristwatch.

    Today, the firm's vintage models are highly sought-after and desired for their oversized cases and interesting dial designs. Key models include a variety of "Compax" models such as the "Nina Rindt" or "Evil Nina," the Uni-Compax, the Space-Compax, the Aero-Compax and the Film-Compax.

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1056

Ref. 22560
An extremely rare steel and gold split-seconds chronograph wristwatch with 24-hour dial signed “A. Cairelli” official supplier to Italian Ministry of Defence

1950
44.5mm diameter
Case, dial and movement signed; dial further signed by retailer

Estimate
HK$120,000 - 240,000 
€14,400-28,800
$15,400-30,800

Sold for HK$571,500

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+ 852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII

Hong Kong Auction 24 - 25 May 2024