Van Cleef & Arpels - Jewels & Jadeite Hong Kong Tuesday, May 23, 2023 | Phillips

Create your first list.

Select an existing list or create a new list to share and manage lots you follow.

    • Designed as a zipper, within heart-shaped borders set with brilliant-cut diamonds and circular-cut pink sapphires, suspending fringes of pink gold chains, mounted in pink gold and platinum, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, French maker's mark and assay marks, maximum length approximately 430 mm.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Like a discreet homage to Paris, the city of elegance, Van Cleef & Arpels links ‘Haute Couture’ with ‘Haute Joaillerie’ through the invention of its iconic ‘Zip’. When the zipper was first introduced in 1930s, Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli adorned her dresses with the new fastener that fascinated the Duchess of Windsor. The Duchess allegedly inspired Renée Puissant, then artistic director of Van Cleef & Arpels and daughter of the maison’s founding couple, to transform the ordinary zipper into an exceptional piece of jewellery.

    This undertaking was proven to be very ambitious and challenging. With the assistance of jewellery designer Réne-Sim Lacaze, the iconic Zip necklace was finally realized more than a decade later in I950. Till this very day, anywhere from 400 to 1200 hours are required by skilled craftsmen to create one Zip necklace. No wonder this emblematic design remains one of the most sought-after high jewellery masterpieces among collectors, and its functionality and transformability still puts people in awe.

    This example in warm pink gold is a fine example of the classic Zip necklace design which highlights the chevron pattern and an understated chain tassel. With alternating pink sapphires and diamonds, it exudes a feminine aura that is powerful and bold --- a dream for jewellery collectors.

  • Artist Biography

    Van Cleef & Arpels

    French

    When Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels fell in love, their marriage paved the way for iconic jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels to become a symbol of unification. With their background in precious stone dealing, the Arpels found their perfect match in the Van Cleefs, a family of expert stonecutters. In 1906, Estelle's brother Charles established the company name with Alfred's help and opened shop in the Place Vendôme in Paris. To this day, this Parisian neighborhood is associated with turn-of-the-century luxury.

    The Van Cleef & Arpels aesthetic has always had its finger on the pulse of worldwide trends: For example, the house took inspiration from Tutankhamen upon the Egyptian king's discovery in the 1920s, which spurred a global phenomenon marrying Egyptian Revival and Art Deco motifs. Over the decades, Van Cleef & Arpels has produced intricate watches, earrings and necklaces with a signature elegance that mirrors contemporary tastes. 

    View More Works

Property of a Private Collector

598

Pink Gold, Pink Sapphire and Diamond Necklace, 'Zip'

Designed as a zipper, within heart-shaped borders set with brilliant-cut diamonds and circular-cut pink sapphires, suspending fringes of pink gold chains, mounted in pink gold and platinum, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, French maker's mark and assay marks, maximum length approximately 430 mm.

Estimate
HK$1,200,000 - 2,000,000 
$150,000-250,000

Sold for HK$3,302,000

Contact Specialist

Charlene Lau
Head of Jewels, Hong Kong
+852 2318 2039
JewelleryHK@phillips.com

Jewels & Jadeite

Hong Kong Auction 23 May 2023