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1045

Paul Gerber

Ref. 152

Retrograd

A rare and elegant white gold wristwatch with retrograde seconds, guarantee and presentation box

Estimate
HK$64,000 - 95,000
€7,100 - 10,500
$8,200 - 12,200
HK$228,600
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Paul Gerber
Year
Circa 2013
Reference No
152
Movement No
90’281
Case No
45
Model Name
Retrograd
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 15, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Paul Gerber pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Accessories
Accompanied by Paul Gerber guarantee card stamped Tenmaya Fukuyama Japan, dated 29 January 2013, certificate, cloth, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Catalogue Essay
In the rarified world of independent watchmaking, names like Philippe Dufour, F.P. Journe, and Kari Voutilainen frequently dominate conversations. But within these hallowed circles of artisanal horology, there’s another name that resonates with quiet brilliance – Paul Gerber. An unsung hero of the craft, Gerber's intricate and groundbreaking timepieces have garnered accolades from collectors and earned him a place in the Guinness World Records for creating one of the most complicated wristwatches ever made.

In the mid‑1990s, Gerber launched his first wristwatch under his own name: the Retrograd ref. 150, powered by the cal. 15, a modified ETA/Peseux 7001 with a retrograde seconds display. Introduced in 1996 and shown in Basel the following year, it became his signature complication. The early references – ref. 150 in gold and ref. 151 in sterling silver – featured solid casebacks. Responding to collector demand for exhibition backs, Gerber unveiled the ref. 152 in 18K gold with a larger 35 mm case, such as the present example in white gold. The dial captivates with its refined leaf hands and Arabic numerals that fan out elegantly.

From record‑breaking clocks to the world’s most complicated wristwatch, and from his pioneering retrograde seconds to his ingenious twin‑rotor automatic, Paul Gerber’s career reflects a singular path of independent creativity, technical mastery, and quiet originality. The present Retrograd with its full set of accessories is a rare find in the auction market.

Paul Gerber

Browse Maker